AT THE CROSS ROADS

Fashion has long been a bellwether of culture at large. For Fall/Winter 2023, designers continue to explore topical themes of gender and dressing, or what it means to strip things down to their essence. But even in a changing world, classic motifs - the colour red or time-tested plaid - hold their own, bridging the past with designers' visions of the future.

- LYNETTE KOH

RED HAUTE

For many women, chopping off their hair can be a major event. It might also have inspired the Fall/ Winter 2023 collection by Hermes's womenswear artistic director who Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, had recently taken scissors to her long auburn locks. Featuring tones ranging from fire reds to coppers and dark browns, her layered looks paid tribute to human hair in its many shades (both natural and out of the box) and fluidity.

The fiery hue is also stopping traffic in the world of menswear. At Zegna, artistic director Alessandro Sartori used vibrant wine reds to enliven earthy tones such as dark brown, mid-grey and dusty yellow. Used on tailored fleece separates or a padded jacket, red added a powerful and unexpected dimension.

Unsurprisingly, perhaps, in a season so replete with the colour, red - being synonymous with Valentino in the fashion world - also made its mark on the brand's runway. And it did so in surprising ways, too - think suits, dresses that looked like suits, or a dress made of a lattice of bows.

LESS IS BEST

Paring back was a common theme in the Fall/Winter 2023 showcases. There were different reasons for this. Typically known for its elaborate show-staging, involving dystopian landscapes filled with "snow" or mud, or typically inaccessible locations such as the New York Stock Exchange, Balenciaga surprised onlookers this season by holding its presentation in a stark Parisian space containing just neat rows of black chairs.

Having recently weathered a controversy relating to one of its campaigns, the brand's creative director Demna wanted to put the focus on his love of making clothes. His collection was centred on techniques like deconstruction and the manipulation of volumes, with waists inverted to become hems or inflatable forms sewn into the linings of jackets.