Homing in

We can see only traces of sections, lawns and fences. The people are departed.

- Charlotte Grimshaw

In November, we set off on a road trip around the South Island. Arriving in Christchurch, we spent days exploring on foot. Last time I visited the city, it was bleak, scarred, dominated by condemned buildings. The rebuild was still slow after the earthquakes, and the streets had a rough, trashed look. On a freezing night back then, I walked through the centre, spooked by all that dead space. There's something terrifying about derelict buildings.

Now, years later, the change is remarkable. The reconstruction has taken off; new buildings are everywhere, and many are aesthetically and architecturally interesting. The city seems compact and dynamic. The river and parks are gorgeous in the spring sunshine. We walk around taking it in: the new centres and cafes, the river, the mature trees that have survived continuous upheaval. Suddenly, surprisingly, Christchurch is beautiful.