OCCASIONALLY I am asked “what’s next?” by friends. At times it is well-meaning, at others withering. “ What about another paper?” they ask. “Or something more serious? Surely you can’t eke out another 400 words on martinis?”
And well, look — this paper may have driven me mad over the years, but I’ve become enormously fond of it. I like its history. I like that Quentin Crewe — at one point our helicopter correspondent (journalism: never what it used to be) — is credited with inventing the modern restaurant review, preferring style and social commentary over perceptively identifying chicken from beef. I like that Fay Maschler, here for 48 years, refined the style, while with her zero and fleeting five stars shaped this city’s openings and closings. I like that she was joined in the Nineties by Charles Campion, padding the outskirts of town for lesser-known cooking and championing unsung finds — a tradition that Jimi Famurewa avidly adopted with detail and insight. Delia Smith wrote for us for more than a decade. The Evening Standard, in one way or another, has changed how London eats.
It is, then, both humbling and gratifying to now be taking on the weekly restaurant review. Reports of its death are greatly exaggerated. I’ve done a number of these columns over the years — covering while Fay holidayed, and then when Jimi did — but keeping it up week-in, week-out as critic proper feels like something different. Perhaps not to you, but certainly to me.
この記事は Evening Standard の September 18, 2024 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です ? サインイン
この記事は Evening Standard の September 18, 2024 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
Top judge demands reform to fast-track justice after a grieving mother's case
GRIEVING families, pensioners with dementia, and even dead people have been wrongly prosecuted in Britain's secretive fast-track courts, a major Evening Standard/ITV News investigation has found.
Saka trains for Euro clash in Italy after derby injury
ARSENAL were today boosted by the fitness of Bukayo Saka ahead of their Champions League opener against Atalanta tomorrow.
After the knocks, I'm on a roll...the best is yet to come from me
THEY say 13 is unlucky for some but that’s not the way I see it ahead of my 13th world title fight.
I DREAM ABOUT ENDING SPURS' WAIT FOR GLORY
POSTECOGLOU URGES PLAYERS TO EMBRACE SPECIAL OPPORTUNITY’ AFTER 16 YEARS WITHOUT A TROPHY
Ange must weigh up gamble on 'fearless' rookies
FOR Ange Postecoglou, picking a team for tonight’s Carabao Cup third-round tie at Coventry is a balancing act that he can ill-afford to misjudge.
Share performance 'not linked' to CEO mega-pay
SOME of the best paid CEOs in Britain have dramatically underperformed the stock market in the past three years, undermining the case for even higher pay for top executives.
Footsie falters ahead of Fed's rates call
DECISION day on the long-awaited opening cut in US interest rates today kept London traders in defensive mode during a poor session for the FTSE 100 index.
Taking a seat at the table: Sit down with our new critic
The Standard's new restaurant reviewer, David Ellis, shares the meals that shaped him, and what the next course holds
I never thought I'd become a best-selling author; bring on the reading renaissance
TO read: within the queer community, known as an instance in which two or more people drag, roast or insult each other for filth.
"My baby died-then I was convicted over lapsed car insurance"
Broken and lost after her three-month-old daughter died from pneumonia, Jenny Beasley forgot to renew a policy ―and found herself prosecuted as a criminal under the controversial Single Justice Procedure, Tristan Kirk reports