2023 marked the return of the OG supermodels

As designers looked beyond celebrity showstoppers this year, the supermodels of the 1990s and 2000s returned in full force

- Pooja Singh

• 'In India, trends start on the movie set, not on the ramp. Perhaps that's why designers are now trying to bring a change'

As Indrani Dasgupta walked the velvet grey-carpeted runway on 18 December, wearing a necklace and a pair of earrings of sherbettoned tourmalines, old-mine cut diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds, my neighbour whispered, "Look at her walk. That's the reason they rule." She was referring to India's supermodels.

That evening at Sabyasachi Mukherjee's first jewellery show, held at Delhi's Oberoi hotel, a number of supermodels now in their 40s, including Dasgupta, Lakshmi Menon and Sheetal Mallar, showcased a collection of over 20 opulent pieces. While the show was a glamourous closing to the 2023 fashion calendar, it also served as a reminder of the return of supermodels this year. These models, who were household names in the 1990s and 2000s, known for their individualistic personalities, charisma and confidence, were back in full force in fashion weeks, shows and brand campaigns.

Earlier this month, Payal Singhal presented her first demi-couture collection in Mumbai, with supermodels Ujjwala Raut and Carol Gracias, among others. "The show was called Fashion In Motion' to show the cyclical nature of fashion, to show that what many may call 'vintage' is still new, fresh and relevant. That's why I wanted to have supermodels," says Singhal.

"For years, there's been this tremendous pressure from media, PR, to get a Bollywood person (on the ramp) so that your clothes get talked about. It might make sense for a young, emerging brand that wants instant eyeballs, but after 20 years in the industry, I can afford to change the narrative, and have people meant for the job," she says.