The concierge is concerned. "Bergamo?" she asks quizzically, as we check out of Lake Como's gloriously technicoloured Grand Hotel Tremezzo. "Ah, for Bergamo Airport!"
"No, we're going to Bergamo for Bergamo," I say cheerfully. This is not the first time we've had to defend our Lombardy itinerary, which saw us take in the grandeur of Milan and Lake Como, before heading to the medieval mountain town. In fact, bafflement about Bergamo had become a recurring theme. One garrulous taxi driver was stunned into silence when we told him our plans. "Bergamo?" he eventually replied. "I don't understand."
I'm baffled by the bafflement. When GT's editor suggested we meet in Milan and do some digging into an unsung Italian food destination, I felt I'd struck gold with Bergamo. Less than an hour away from both Milan and Lake Como, Bergamo appears the ideal addition to a classic Lombardy itinerary, offering alpine gastronomy and medieval architecture, perfectly complementing and contrasting with Lake Como's old-school glamour and fast-paced Milan's sophistication.
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From personal experience
Former Hope St Radio chef ELLIE BOUHADANA invites you to gather your loved ones and enjoy an evening of good food and laughter with recipes from her new cookbook, Ellie's Table.
Kimberley Moulton
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we applaud the international curator and Yorta Yorta woman who is shining a light on First Peoples.
Tom Wallace
We share a drop with the head winemaker for Devil's Corner, Tamar Ridge and Pirie Sparkling, a master of cool-climate grapes.
Best in class
The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)
A taste of refuge
Fleeing war and persecution, Australia's new arrivals push our food culture forward. DANI VALENT explores the contributions of the country's refugee communities.
BE OUR GUEST
Inspired by the sense of place conjured by Europe's Michelin-star restaurants, local restaurateurs are expanding their hospitality remit to include accommodation
Barcelona BUZZ
A popular drawcard for digital nomads and expats alike, the Catalonian capital offers equal parts sophistication and fun. Here, DANI VALENT discovers the latest dining hotspots.
HEATHCOTE BOUND
MICHAEL HARDEN hits the road to explore regional Victoria's Heathcote, home to this year's Best Destination Dining and a host of other delights.
The art of...relishing restaurants
Does working in hospitality make someone a better or worse diner
HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
