EATING BANGKOK

What does street dining look like today in the city that has come to define it? DANI VALENT hits the Thai capital to find out.

- DANI VALENT

The best food cities are ungraspable: their appeal is generated by energy that refuses to be harnessed and change that occurs at a belting pace. But there’s also depth to a great culinary destination. Unshakeable tradition sits alongside innovation, seasonal rhythms and pride in sharing culture and flavours. On any of these measures, Bangkok – an ever-expanding megacity of more than 11 million people – is unbeatable. Being food-obsessed in Thailand’s capital is an adventure restricted only by time and eating capacity. With that in mind, here are some current favourites. We’ve focused east of the Chao Phraya River that bisects Bangkok, in the old city that centres on Chinatown and in the buzzy Thong Lor neighbourhood, which is delightfully walkable.

CLASSICS

Soei
Bangkok insider Zenon Misko (Roaming Bangkok on Instagram) warned me the food at seafood specialist Soei was spicy but I didn’t know this large chilli-loving restaurant would take me on an emotional rollercoaster, starting at optimism (I can eat this!), shifting to disbelief (how is it so hot?), creeping through agony (my ears were buzzing) and ending at euphoria (I’d do it again). Recommended: the spicy egg salad, fried mackerel head and mackerel tom yum. Phibun Watthana 6 Alley, Phaya Thai

Mae Varee Mango Sticky Rice
Is it possible to visit Bangkok without becoming obsessed by mango sticky rice? Not in my case. Mae Varee does an exemplary rendition, with three colours of rice, excellent mango, the perfect balance of sweet and sour, and a good sprinkling of crisp bits. 1 Thong Lo, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana