QUICK LOOK
220 London Cct, Canberra, ACT andsuchandsuch.com
CHEF Malcolm Hanslow and Nick Peterson
OPENING HOURS Lunch Wed-Fri Dinner Mon-Sat
PRICE GUIDE $$$
BOOKINGS Recommended.
VERDICT Fun with a capital F.
Identifying a through line on Such and Such’s menu isn’t easy. A meal might begin with stellar sourdough flatbread that’s more like a crumpet, given glossy sheen from a smear of extra-sharp toum. From there it could zig to a bowl of crunchy fried school prawns and cashews, coated in a tingly “666 spice” mix that’s not quite as demonic as it sounds. Or zag to hibachi-grilled beef intercostals and enoki mushrooms designed to be wrapped in a sesame leaf kissed with perky miso sambal.
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From personal experience
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
