SATURDAY NIGHT AT the Sydney Opera House is always a festive occasion, and it was particularly glittery the evening my husband and I took his father to a concert there last fall. The violinist Joshua Bell was performing Mendelssohn with the Academy of St. Martin in the Fields, and concertgoers turned up in their finest, looking sharp against the hall's bright-pink seats.
During the intermission, we stood out on the western plaza and took in the view of the Central Business District, or CBD, as locals call it-the heart of downtown Sydney, which includes popular waterfront areas like Barangaroo, Circular Quay, and the Rocks. The area's fortunes have shifted many times over the decades. When the Rocks was redeveloped in the 1960s and 70s, hundreds were displaced from public housing. My husband (who is from Sydney) recalled that in the 90s and 2000s, no one really went there other than to work. Then the pandemic emptied the place out.
Now the CBD is changing again. With new tram lines, a revitalized harbor, an expanded museum, and the opening of high-end hotels and restaurants, the district has become one of the city's most vibrant areas-and a model for mixeduse development where economic renewal is balanced with cultural inclusivity.
One of the best examples is the year-old Capella Sydney (doubles from $450), the brand's first property in Australia and the first luxury hotel to open downtown in about two decades. Occupying a meticulously restored government building from the early 1900s, the Capella has an ornate sandstone façade and a wrought-iron staircase, 192 sumptuous guest rooms, and a marble-lined pool.
The hotel has contributed to the CBD's revival by breathing new life into historic structures, said David Tsang, CEO of Pontiac Land, Capella's parent company. "These were imposing buildings that most people had never been inside of," he told me. "Hospitality makes them more porous and vibrant."
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The Luxury of Silence - Grieving a dissolved marriage, Nora Walsh seeks peace and compassion at a meditation retreat in California.
My decade-long marriage to a man I deeply love had dissolved, and I had come to the Spirit Rock Meditation Center, in the secluded hills of Marin County, north of San Francisco, to steady myself. Led by the author and meditation teacher Oren Jay Sofer, the seven-day silent retreat focused on the four brahmavihÄra, or Buddhist virtues: loving-kindness, compassion, joy, and equanimity.
Family Values - Gay father and blogger Jonathan Bailey shares his proudest moments of traveling with his partner and daughters.
My partner and I grew up in families that didn't travel a lot, so we've always had a sense of wanderlust. Before we had kids, we traveled together, and it was life-changing-travel opened our minds to different ways of life.In 2000, Triton and I decided to have kids. At the time, my mom had terminal cancer, and we were all about connecting with family. We wanted to adopt, because we felt like there were so many children in the world who needed love and a good home. In 2002, my mom passed away, and Sophia was born two weeks later. We welcomed our second daughter, Ava, in 2004.
Back to Sri Lanka - The past few years have not been easy on this alluring South Asian island. But on a return visit, Prasad Ramamurthy finds a place-and a people-on the upswing.
I was at the end of a five-day journey that had begun in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Galle Fort, in southwestern Sri Lanka, and taken me across the southern tip of the island to the leopard reserve of Yala National Park. In between I had taken in the dramatic coastline of Weligama and had stopped for some beach time in Hiriketiya. Sri Lanka is a country I'm particularly fond of, so when I was asked to revisit to report this story, I seized the opportunity. Yes, I was dying to go back, but I'd had another motive for coming: I wanted to see if the island nation was ready to welcome international visitors again.
Experiences: Hands On - Single-malt whiskies and triple-cream cheeses are the stuff New York's Hudson Valley is made of.
The Hudson Valley has long drawn New York City dwellers in search of clean air, spectacular hikes, and upstate culture. Now a budding community of artisans-young farmers, bakers, vintners, distillers-is turning the region into a modern breadbasket.It is a tightly woven ecosystem that also extends to restaurants and hotels. At Tenmile Distillery, in the town of Wassaic, for example, the grain used to make whiskey comes from a farm in Tivoli, 30 miles away, while the gin and vodka it produces are served at stylish addresses like the Troutbeck (doubles from $580), a hotel in Amenia, and the restaurant Stissing House (entrées $22-$155), in Pine Plains.
LAGOS RISING
Africa's biggest city is a powerhouse of art, culture, and fashion. Shirley Nwangwa reflects on her relationship to her family's home and to her Nigerian identity, while photographer Ike Edeani captures the creative scene.
DEEP DIVE
Go for a swim with sperm whales, and you may find yourself hooked. Maggie Shipstead journeys to the Caribbean island of Dominica, where these giants of the deep are making a big splash.
AMERICAN VINTAGE
After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve. Wanda Mann takes a tasting tour.
Take a Hike
A beloved Malibu spa renowned for embracing the outdoors makes its way to the East Coast. Jess Feldman takes an inside look.
Just Dive In
The most nautical Four Seasons has to be this scuba-centric ship, which sails a rarely visited corner of the Pacific.
The Next Frontier
With deep pockets and mighty ambitions, Saudi Arabia is building a high-end resort area with serious green cred.
