INTELLIGENT TRAVELER

TIPS + TRICKS TO HELP YOU TRAVEL SMARTER

- PAUL BRADY

ELECTRIC ONCE MORE

After three years of near-total closure, Hong Kong is finally back on the tourist map. Chris Dong returns to the city to determine what's changed and what's better than ever.

IT SEEMED ALMOST too good to be true. After 34 months of hard quarantine rules and ever-shifting regulations that scared off all but the most determined travelers, Hong Kong announced in late 2022 that it would drop almost all COVID restrictions. These days, only a self-administered rapid test is required of visitors coming from the U.S.

I jumped at the chance to be one of the first Americans to enter under the newly relaxed rules. Though I hadn't been to Hong Kong since May 2019, this would be my 12th visit to the city-a place that my parents once called home. Much has changed, as a result of both the pandemic and recent political turmoil, including protests against government curbs on freedom of expression. Yet I still found much to enjoy, not least Hong Kong's blend of Chinese and international cultural influences a mix that, as a Chinese American, resonates particularly strongly for me.

"Now more than ever, we want to remind travelers what there is to love about our city-its rich and layered culture, its historic-meets contemporary atmosphere," says Hugo Montanari, managing director of the Rosewood Hong Kong (rosewood hotels.com; doubles from $828).

Here's how to make the most of a trip, whether it's your first, or just your first in a while. 

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