You may not have been aware of it, but this was the 'Year of the Karaim' in Lithuania. At the official declaration, Lithuanian prime minister Ingrida Šimonyte described the Karaim people as a "unique treasure", though official figures show there are only 196 living in the country today. Yet, despite being one of the smallest minorities in Europe, Karaim culture is still a big part of Trakai, the former Lithuanian capital (about 30km southwest of Vilnius), where they were once the city's champions.
In 1397, Vytautas, ruler of what was then the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, invited several hundred Karaim families from Crimea to Trakai to serve as its defenders and warriors. Back then, they were famed for their swordsmanship, and the Karaim were duly given the land between Trakai's two castles as reward. It is still called Karaim street to this day, and strolling here reveals wooden houses painted in yellow, green and ochre.
Vytautas' castle, built on an island in Lake Galvé, remains the most dramatic sight in town even now; however, Trakai eventually lost its need for an army. Once the Karaim were no longer required to be warriors, they became market gardeners and traders instead, and were famed for growing cucumbers - and where would Lithuania be without its gherkins? While many minorities suffer marginalisation or persecution, the Karaim have fared better. "The community has always had a very good name," said Karina FirkaviÄiÅ«tÄ, who has a house on Karaim street. "We are happy to see the highest representatives of our country come and celebrate our anniversary and congratulate us, so that our good relationship can carry on." Also on Karaim Street is the kenesa, the Karaim place of worship. It is a compact, square building with coloured windows and a pointed roof. It's clearly neither a church nor a mosque, but it's also not a synagogue.
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