Riffing through the Rift Valley

Do you dream of seeing Africa's wildest places but you always feel that you don't have enough time? lan Tyrer and his friends packed a lot into a 30-day adventure: The first week took them through Ethiopia, Uganda and Rwanda. Geladas! Shoebills! Mountain gorillas! Strap in and let's go...

- IAN & RYAN TYRER

Sleeping next to a toilet is the kind of thing you’d expect on a rough trip through Africa, but not on the very first night in the City Lodge next to ORTambo!

Earlier that day, we’d flown from King Shaka, where our families had gathered to send us off. I was travelling with my son Ryan, friends Pete Meyer and Paul Kalil, and Paul’s son Josh.We had dubbed our month-long adventure“Africa –Wild & Untamed”and I’d picked my travel partners carefully.

Pete is an old Durban business associate of mine; I’ve known him for years. Paul and Josh work for their family packaging business, also based in Durban. I have six children but Ryan is the only one left in South Africa so he was the lucky one who could join in easily. He’s a game ranger at Manyoni Private Game Reserve in Zululand.

The five of us arrived at the City Lodge in Joburg only to find out that Pete somehow didn’t have a reservation – and the place was fully booked!We begged the lady at reception to allow one of us to sleep on the floor of the room. She agreed and I sacrificed my bed for Pete and made a nest on the floor.

So far, so good, but 20 minutes after lights out, Pete started sawing down a plantation! The man is an erratic snorer and I’m a light sleeper, so I movedmy floor-bed into the rather snug bathroom. At first, I lay my head next to the toilet bowl to fit into the limited space, but the smell of Toilet Duck singed my nasal cavities. The only other option was to put my head inside the shower cubicle with my toes in Toilet Duck territory.

Africa –Wild & Untamed was off to a wild start! 

Geladas in the Highlands