Shane Dorian, 47
Surfer|Volume 61, Issue 2
Father, hunter, one of the best ever in waves 2-feet to 60. Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
JUSTIN HOUSMAN
Shane Dorian, 47

It’s totally possible to ride a wave so big and so intense that you just walk away from the sport afterward. I don’t think I could ever do it as dramatically as Greg Noll, but it has occurred to me. Every winter I assess my mindset and wonder if this will be the year I’ll paddle out at Jaws and decide that that’s it, I don’t want anything to do with it anymore. Now that I’ve been out of it for a little bit, I look back at some of the waves I’d ridden at Jaws and Mavs and I’m not sure I’ll ever top them in terms of a personal experience. At some point, I feel like it’s kind of irresponsible and selfish of me to put myself in tons of danger when I really don’t need to anymore. I have a lot of responsibility in my life these days.

You don’t need so many surfboards. I don’t want to be wasteful and I don’t want to maximize the amount of shit I’m throwing in a landfill. Try not to do that. I might not be the most eco-conscious person in the world, but I definitely would think about waste every time I ordered a bunch of boards.

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Denne historien er fra Volume 61, Issue 2-utgaven av Surfer.

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FLERE HISTORIER FRA SURFERSe alt
60 Years Ahead
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60 Years Ahead

We had a whole plan for this year. Funny, right? Surfer's 60 year anniversary volume was going to be filled with stories nodding to SURFER’s past, with cover concepts paying homage to the magazine’s most iconic imagery. Our new Page One depicts something that’s never happened in surfing before, let alone on a prior SURFER cover. And our table of contents was completely scrapped and replaced as we reacted to the fizzing, sparking, roiling world around us. In other words, 2020 happened to SURFER, just like it happened to you.

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Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020
A Few Things We Got Horribly Wrong
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A Few Things We Got Horribly Wrong

You don’t make 60 years of magazines without dropping some balls. Here are a few

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7 mins  |
Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020
THE LGBTQ+ WAVE
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THE LGBTQ+ WAVE

Surf culture has a long history of marginalizing the LGBTQ+ community, but a new generation of queer surfers is working to change that

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Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020
For Generations to Come
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For Generations to Come

Rockaway’s Lou Harris is spreading the stoke to Black youth and leading surfers in paddling out for racial justice

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Christina Koch, 41
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Christina Koch, 41

Texas surfer, NASA astronaut, record holder for the longest continuous spaceflight by a woman

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END TIMES FOR PRO SURFING
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END TIMES FOR PRO SURFING

By the time the pandemic is done reshaping the world, will the World Tour still have a place in it?

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Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020
CHANGING OF THE GUARD
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CHANGING OF THE GUARD

After decades of exclusive access to Hollister Ranch, the most coveted stretch of California coast is finally going public

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Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020
What They Don't Tell You
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What They Don't Tell You

How does becoming a mother affect your surfing life?

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Volume 61, Issue 3 / Winter 2020
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Helpful reminders for the quarantine era

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Volume 61, Issue 2
The Art of Being Seen
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The Art of Being Seen

How a group of black women are finding creative ways to make diversity in surfing more visible

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Volume 61, Issue 2