Our hand-held VHF burst into life. Esa’s excited voice came over the radio.‘There’s a polar bear attacking the dinghy!’ Petri and I hurried back to the beach, abandoning the tea and pancakes we were just about to tuck into with some Russian geologists who had a research camp nearby.
The rocky terrain was slippery due to the rain, making it difficult to stay on our feet. On the beach the sad sight of a deflated dinghy lying on the sand greeted us. With relief, we saw the polar bear was gone, but evidence of the predator’s teeth and claws could be seen on the dinghy. Luckily we were able to patch the holes.
We were in Sallyhamna, a reasonably sheltered anchorage on the northwest tip of Spitsbergen, and two months into our voyage around Svalbard.
We had planned our trip to the Norwegian archipelago carefully, waiting for the favourable ice reports: good for us, but not for the polar bears.
The edge of the Arctic ice pack had withdrawn to the north, and even the critical Hinlopen Strait, our gateway to return south from the northern shores of Spitsbergen, seemed to be navigable.
The plan was to sail around Spitsbergen, the main island of the Svalbard archipelago, situated about midway between continental Norway and the North Pole. Depending on the ice situation this passage can be a challenge even for steel boats. We would be attempting it in a small fibreglass boat, my Bavaria 300, Ruffe, and there was certainly some anxiety in the air as we prepared to continue north from Longyearbyen, the capital of Svalbard.
Denne historien er fra November 2020-utgaven av Yachting Monthly.
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Denne historien er fra November 2020-utgaven av Yachting Monthly.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
I WAS THE ONLY SAILOR ON OUR FAMILY CHARTER AND IT HAD TO GO WELL
Crystal waters, cliff tombs and sunken outboards lain Willis wanted to ensure plain sailing for his family’s first charter around Turkey's Lycian Coast
HOW IT WORKS SEAWATER PUMP
The water and oil seals on a water pump shaft will eventually wear with time, leading to pump-shaft corrosion or loss of engine oil.
THOUSANDS OF MILES ACROSS THE INDIAN OCEAN
Floris and Ivar battled severe weather and cross swell to sail from Australia to South Africa, but there were beautiful islands on the way
The secret of yachts with enduring appeal
Fashions come and go, but J-Boats remain a safe choice for great sailing boats, whether you want to own it for ever or sell it
Tragic sinking of Bayesian; Italian prosecutors investigate
The sinking of the Bayesian superyacht in reportedly only 16 minutes and the tragic loss of seven lives has sent a shudder through the sailing community and beyond.
THE ADVENT OF MARINE AI TECHNOLOGY
Fonathon Savill reports on the revolutionary impact artificial intelligence is about to have on all areas of life at sea
IMPROVING SINGLE-LINE REEFING
Martin Watts explains how to reduce the friction on the reefing lines of newer yachts
The secrets of skippering a successful cruise
Setting off on a cruise is easy, but planning a route that keeps your options open and ensures the enjoyment of all on board is more of an art
CRUISING THE KINGDOM OF THE ISLES
Joanna Martin and her husband Mark sail across the Irish Sea to the legendary sea kingdom and to draw the wonderful wildlife there
MOODY DS48
Can a boat built for long-term, long-distance cruising and offering one-level living still deliver an enjoyable sailing experience? Theo Stocker sets sail across the English Channel to find out
