Tangled In Tana

The Madagascan capital is an experience that engages all the senses

- Keri Harvey

Arriving in Antananarivo, Madagascar’s capital, is an assault on the senses. It’s chaotic, tantalising and difficult to label, which is also what makes it so alluring. Before you head off into the countryside, indulge in a morsel of history, wildlife, culture and authentic ‘big island’ shopping. Traffic is at a standstill, yet there is not a jot of irritation amongst drivers. Instead, many of them are leaning against their old Renaults and Citroëns, chatting and catching up on news, while nibbling on fresh fruit bought from roadside vendors. The traffic jam is good for business, so the traders are happy and animated. Smiles come easily to the Malagasy people, who are warm-hearted and naturally generous.

“There’s a bridge being repaired,” explains our driver Parany with a smile, “and when it’s completed, it will help the traffic. Would you like an apple while we wait?”

About an hour later, we are all back in the car and idling along slowly again. Streets are narrow, traffic is heavy and Tana is built on a series of hills, which also exacerbates traffic tangles.

Multi-coloured, multi-storeyed houses that look like Lego constructions cling desperately to the hillsides. On lower, more level areas are rice paddies – patchwork throws in shades of green. And scattered wherever space allows is laundry, carefully arranged on the grass to dry in the sun.

The capital is home to over three million of the country’s 27 million people and is rated by many travellers as one of the most charming Third World cities. The colours are vibrant and the atmosphere is buzzing. Old French cars swarm through the winding streets in a mesh of traffic chaos, while dishevelled hole-in-the-wall shops line main routes. Poverty is evident, while an ancient royal palace overlooks the city.

A royal mouthful