The protection of our soil is grounds for putting native fauna on our plates
Sometimes I consider geophagy. My soil of choice would be Permian mudstone, the creamy, 250 million-year-old clay of both the hills where I grew up, and of Neika where we now farm. My blood is Dutch and half murkily charted white Australian and New Zealander, and perhaps this lack of belonging to any particular land drives my daydreams of eating earth. I long for the connection Indigenous Tasmanians feel with the land, of blood and earth being one, neither owning the other.
Perhaps it’s these cravings that drive me to sink my hands into the dirt, and perhaps it’s the craving to belong to the land that also drives my desire to be kind to it.
Australian soils are fragile. Before the introduction of hoofed animals the hardest impact on our earth was the soft pad of a kangaroo’s foot. I love lamb chops as much as the next omnivore, but I wonder why my idea for a soft-footed national dish has thus far remained unheeded?
Denne historien er fra January 2018-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
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Denne historien er fra January 2018-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
From personal experience
Former Hope St Radio chef ELLIE BOUHADANA invites you to gather your loved ones and enjoy an evening of good food and laughter with recipes from her new cookbook, Ellie's Table.
Kimberley Moulton
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we applaud the international curator and Yorta Yorta woman who is shining a light on First Peoples.
Tom Wallace
We share a drop with the head winemaker for Devil's Corner, Tamar Ridge and Pirie Sparkling, a master of cool-climate grapes.
Best in class
The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)
A taste of refuge
Fleeing war and persecution, Australia's new arrivals push our food culture forward. DANI VALENT explores the contributions of the country's refugee communities.
BE OUR GUEST
Inspired by the sense of place conjured by Europe's Michelin-star restaurants, local restaurateurs are expanding their hospitality remit to include accommodation
Barcelona BUZZ
A popular drawcard for digital nomads and expats alike, the Catalonian capital offers equal parts sophistication and fun. Here, DANI VALENT discovers the latest dining hotspots.
HEATHCOTE BOUND
MICHAEL HARDEN hits the road to explore regional Victoria's Heathcote, home to this year's Best Destination Dining and a host of other delights.
The art of...relishing restaurants
Does working in hospitality make someone a better or worse diner
HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
