Town of treasures

CATHERINE COURTENAY rediscovers a rich history and encounters more modern treasures in the town where she grew up

- CATHERINE COURTENAY

Walking into town over Barnstaple’s Long Bridge, I’m reminded of the legend of Tom Faggus. This 17th-century highwayman was reputedly a good sort, only robbing from the rich. He escaped capture many times, including one daring escapade when he got his trusty steed Winnie to leap over the parapet of this bridge into the waters below.

It’s an exciting and romantic image, and just one of the many stories associated with this ancient town. Barnstaple may be the oldest borough in England and in the late 16th and early 17th centuries became an important trading centre, with ships bringing and taking goods to and from the town.

It might be hard to imagine a port full of sailing ships now, but it’s still nice to walk along the river bank through Rock Park and try to picture the scene. Both bridge and river walk lead to the town’s Square which, thanks to a fairly recent re-design, is mainly given over to pedestrians. It’s surrounded by some elegant and historic buildings, the central one being that which houses the Museum of Barnstaple and North Devon. When I was young, this former private home, built in 1872, was the town’s library and athenaeum but it became the museum when a new library was built near the old cattle market. Last year saw a new extension to the museum, which blends in beautifully to the old building. It’s provided more exhibition space and there’s a café named after the former Bromley’s Café which was a major institution in the town. Sited on the Strand and backing onto a bakery in the High Street, it ran from 1919 for 65 years.