Making History

In Fashion, The Stakeholders May Come And Go As Fast As The Trends They're Making. As We Enter A New Season, A Rotation Of Key Creative Frontmen At The Helm Of Different Houses Promises A Gush Of Fresh Air And Renewed Energy

- JAMIE LEE

If SS’23 was a tribute to fashion’s prepandemic past, then FW’23 can be described as a sobering reality check. After all, fashion can be said to be a reflection of what’s going on in the world, and right now the world is grappling with the long-term consequences of the recent pandemic, an ongoing economic recession and a bleak outlook because of the climate crisis.

Apart from Diesel’s revival and its show — which was staged on a stage that featured a condom tower, it’s been a quiet season. A fashion insider commented that brands were struggling to find something to say. Gone were the days when runway shows determined what was popular. Now a single question remains: What is there left to say or even do with fashion?

Well, plenty, judging from the movements taking place within the industry — a new roster of creative frontmen for key brands, the surprising boom of if-you-know-you-know brands like Loro Piana, The Row and Proenza Schouler, and major business moves, like Kering’s acquisition of a 30 percent stake in Valentino, and a merger between luxury fashion giants Tapestry (which owns Kate Spade and Coach) and Capri (which owns Versace, Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo).

As brands reposition themselves and creative directors shuffle around, we are reminded how fashion is endlessly evolving. Through its reinventions and its innovations, its inspirational value holds firm as it helps us not just to think of what is but of what could be, and we have never needed its aspirational influence as much as we do now.

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