Here Be Dragons

A voyage back to Indonesia is steeped in wildlife, nature and heritage for Lara Lee as she journeys through the islands within Komodo National Park and Bali

The road to the Komodo Islands is long. I say road but, strictly speaking, it is a passage by air and sea as well as land. I am travelling to one of the most remote places in the world, so I am expecting a remarkable adventure.

The first leg of my 10-day journey is a long-haul flight to Bali, landing in the secluded foothills of Tabanan in the east, a relatively unknown part of the island, 30 minutes north of the village of Canggu. I stay at Nirjhara, an exquisite jungle resort with a cascading waterfall at its centre. A meandering river separates the retreat from the fertile rice paddies lining the entrance. Small black and yellow centipedes weave through the delicate carpet of frangipani covering the footpath. Outstretched banana-tree leaves bow their heads, while bamboo stems and the lobster claws of red heliconias sway gently in the cooling breeze.

The 25-room resort has been designed with careful consideration for the natural landscape surrounding it. My accommodation here is the Residence, a two-bedroom villa that opens out onto a tropical forest, a view I can also see from the private infinity pool. The walls are made from coconut shells and the rooms are constructed with recycled wood and natural stone; traditional ironwood-shingled roofing complements the lush surroundings and the melodic soundtrack of the birds, while the gentle hum of insects is soothing and serene. A sugar glider-a type of possum-leaps across the palm fronds, entertaining me as it climbs at speed over the foliage.