A Royal AFFAIR

From India’s colourful stones to its delicately carved gems—how the country continues to inspire Cartier’s most imaginative designs

For over a century Cartier has been creating India-inspired jewellery. It all began in 1911, when Jacques Cartier, grandson of Louis-FranÇois Cartier, the French watchmaker who established the Cartier business in 1847, set sail for the subcontinent in search of the finest gems. There, he encountered fluted beads, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds carved into leaves, flowers, and berries —all typical of the Indian jewellery tradition. These inspired him to create never-before-seen colour combinations: Red, green, and blue. Bracelets, wristwatches, and necklaces adorned with gemstones carved into berries, branches, and flowers and then mounted on platinum and set with diamonds were first referred to as Foliage, then Hindu, and, finally, Tutti Frutti. This adaptation of the traditional codes of Indian jewellery has become symbolic of Cartier style.

Today, the storied house has reinterpreted the iconic style into the Maharajah necklace. A versatile masterpiece that can be worn in eight different ways, it comprises a voluminous tassel of 19 gemstones, including two Colombian emeralds totalling 86.96 carats and a central stone of 43.73 carats. These are joined by an 18.58-carat hexagonal engraved Zambian emerald, a 23.24-carat engraved Burmese ruby, and eight Burmese ruby cabochons totalling 46.34 carats. Here, Bazaar speaks to Pierre Rainero, image and heritage director of Cartier, on the making of the necklace and why India continues to play such an important role in the brand’s identity.

Harper’s Bazaar: What inspired you to create the Maharajah necklace, and why in the Tutti Frutti style?