As the luxury sports watch sits front and centre, an entire span of watchmaking is being overshadowed, verging on irrelevance. The past five years have been so focused on the likes of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual and Day-Date that an entire generation of customers has all but forgotten dress watches (the popularity of casual style, even in business and evening wear, in Singapore means that the sports watch has been dominant for far longer than five years – Ed). They do not seem to be aware that the new Perpetual 1908 is but the latest avatar in an almost century-long history of Rolex classic timepieces.
And yet, this new Perpetual collection is nothing short of a revolution in the way it has been devised, designed and positioned. The 1908 symbolizes this constant re-examination of what has been achieved while setting tradition in motion. Behind its understated looks and 39mm gold case, the 1908 is, to put it simply, a great watch, which we have ascertained after a week-long test on the wrist.
EARTHQUAKE
To the untrained eye, the Perpetual 1908 is nothing extraordinary. What could be extraordinary in a classic-looking Rolex after all? The Geneva watchmaker has been making such pieces for its entire history. Case in point, the 1908 takes its name after the year the Rolex brand name was registered. It can also be argued that the first self-winding Oyster, launched in 1931, served as inspiration for this contemporary one. Several design cues do link these two watches, even though they are 90 years apart. To the trained eye, though, the inaugural piece in the Perpetual collection is extremely special. Yet this fact may go unnoticed, because 2023 will go on to be an earthquake year in the brand's timeline.
Denne historien er fra Legacy 2023-utgaven av WOW Singapore.
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Denne historien er fra Legacy 2023-utgaven av WOW Singapore.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
NEW FRONTIERS
The outgoing CEO of TAG Heuer Julien Tornare shares his management style and values. No doubt these will remain consistent in his new role as Hublot CEO, just as they were in his Zenith tenure
STRUCTURAL STYLE
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni explains the logic of the new Toric collection and takes us through his thoughts on style and elegance
THE CONVERSATION: APROPOS COMPLICATIONS
A watch with complications appeals to different sorts of collectors, and is quite different to a complex watch. The editors of Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand discuss the virtues of all sorts of complications and consider when more is really better...
EUREKA MOMENTS
Our extended look at gold in watchmaking comes to a close in this third and final part, with a look at five proprietary gold alloys. Of course, there are certainly more than five so we will leave the door ajar on going even further
MACHINE LEARNING
The mechanical calendar has been perfected over the last 100 years; it remains a challenge that invites multiple watchmaking and engineering approaches. We get into the nuts and bolts of how the perpetual calendar gets the job done
CULTURAL SENSE
The story of our calendar and why it is rife with anomalies
QUANTA OF TIME
Just as hours, minutes and seconds are quanta of time, so too are days, weeks, months and years. We finally explore the story of the perpetual calendar in particular, in a year that invites such ruminations
PURPLE REIGN
H. Moser Cie brings a brand new dial to the party with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
AUTUMN HUE
Grand Seiko continues its celebration of the 20th anniversary of Calibre 9R with the limited edition SBGA499
TWICE UPON A TIME
The world's greatest double tourbillon wristwatch, the Breguet Classique 5345 Quai de L'horloge is back, with new hand-finishing touches