Ljubljana is the most provincial of European capitals. Small, out of the way, a traditional thoroughfare, from Roman times onwards, for those travelling to grander, more storied places: Venice to the west, Vienna to the north, Budapest to the east, the beautiful Croatian coastline to the south. But it should not be overlooked. There’s a reason Slovenia’s capital and largest city translates as ‘the beloved’. Provincial it may be, but Ljubljana is anything but a cultural backwater. It is one of the most characterful cities on the continent – a perfectly preserved palimpsest of European architectural history ringed with forests, lakes and mountains.
The city dates back to the 1st century AD. It was then a Roman outpost named Emona, and remnants of Roman walls and churches are still visible. In the Middle Ages, its position as a crossroads between competing dynasties saw it sacked, occupied and largely destroyed by warring foreign rulers. There were also catastrophic earthquakes in the region in 1511 and 1895 that effectively razed much of the medieval city to the ground. But, as it rebuilt itself on both occasions, it did so in the midst of history-defining eras for art and architecture. Now it is full of baroque and Renaissance-era buildings with later additions during the Secessionist and art nouveau period.
One man was particularly influential in this latter period. Architect Jože Plecnik was born in Ljubljana and, after an education in Graz and Vienna and a decade renovating Prague Castle, returned home to Ljubljana in 1921. Beyond Slovenia, he was barely known. His lack of a signature style all but disqualified him from mainstream European architectural discourse of the time, and he remained an obscure figure until some years after his death in 1957. Yet few architects anywhere in the world have had such a great impact, or made such a lasting impression, on the city of their birth.
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Denne historien er fra October 2019-utgaven av Wallpaper.
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Blonde Ambition - A new iteration of Gucci's beloved 'Blondie' bag fuses effortless Seventies insouciance with crisp modernity
Recently reimagined by creative director Sabato De Sarno as part of his Cruise 2025 collection, Gucci’s ‘Blondie’ bag, first launched in 1971, centres around a rounded version of the brand’s historic interlocking-G symbol. Now one of fashion’s most recognisable motifs, it remains on De Sarno’s interpretation, which is designed to recall the original’s effortless insouciance and the heady, liberated spirit of the 1970s.
Role Models - Elmgreen & Dragset's subversive take on the classical form at Paris' Musée d'Orsay explores contemporary masculinities in a heteronormative world
As Elmgreen & Dragset, Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset bring a smart subversion to their large-scale installations. Over the last three decades, they have taken a sideways look at social and political systems by recontextualising mainstream motifs: works have included a full-scale replica of a Prada boutique in the Texan desert and a vast, vertical swimming pool, now installed in Hong Kong.
Flask Force - A limited-edition perfume collaboration between two Spanish craft masters says it with flowers
Loewe and Lladró are two brands with a lot in common. They're both Spanish, they're both born out of an obsessive desire to master a particular material (Loewe with leather and Lladró with porcelain), and they're both exemplars of luxury design. So it seems fitting, then, that the two maisons have finally come together for an exceptional collaboration, launching this autumn: a limited-edition run of porcelain flask toppers for three of Loewe Perfumes' classic scents.
Bloom Service - A flower-shaped brutalist beauty in Geneva gets a refresh
Tucked between the extensive campus of Geneva's University Hospital and a huddle of associated medical institutions, laboratories and surgeries, the Avenue de la Roseraie is trod by few casual visitors to the Swiss city. And yet here - out of sight in a small car park is an extraordinary structure that, situated elsewhere, would surely draw the attention of architectural students like bees to a nectar-rich flower. Horticulturalists, too, perhaps, for whom a building nicknamed La Tulipe might well incite curiosity.
Second Nature -A remodelled museum in Lisbon, by Kengo Kuma & Associates, meshes Japanese and Portuguese influences to create a space that sits in harmony with its surroundings
The Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation's complex in Lisbon has been one of the city's best-loved landmarks since it opened in the 1960s. The foundation aims to improve quality of life through art, charity, science and education, and its Lisbon campus encompasses a main office, library, scientific research centre and contemporary art museum, Centro de Arte Moderna (CAM), which reopens this month following an extensive four-year renovation by Japanese studio Kengo Kuma & Associates. Designed in collaboration with landscape architect Vladimir Djurovic, the update cleverly reconfigures the space and extends the foundation's gardens to craft a more cohesive relationship between the existing structures.
Cane and Able- Fusing traditional craftsmanship with contemporary vision, design studio Ibuku demonstrates the versatility of bamboo at a serene Bali villa
Over the last decade, Bali-based studio Ibuku, headed up by designer Elora Hardy, has become a leading expert in bamboo architecture, its output encompassing everything from a traditional Sumbanese house and a yoga and meditation space to playful treehouses and a riverside café at an eco-friendly jungle retreat in Ubud. In 2021, the studio completed The Arc sports hall at the Green School in Bali (founded by Elora's father, designer John Hardy). Made from a series of arches spanning an impressive 19m, it was a pioneering feat of bamboo engineering.
Guest Editor Marcio Kogan - Marcio Kogan has been prolific since setting up his namesake studio in São Paulo in 1978 (it was renamed Studio MK27 at the turn of the century).
Marcio Kogan has been prolific since setting up his namesake studio in São Paulo in 1978 (it was renamed Studio MK27 at the turn of the century). The 72-year-old architect has since become synonymous with contemporary Brazilian chic, offering a sumptuous blend of raw, textured materials; clean geometric forms; effortless functionality; vernacular design features; and a deep knowledge and appreciation of the rich, tropical modernist architecture legacy of his home country.
DREAM TEAM
A rewatching of a seminal film laid the foundation for JW Anderson's latest collection, a fantastical collaboration with artist Christiane Kubrick
Commercial artists
We conjure up public spaces that look and feel good, taking our design cues from the domestic landscape
LINES OF BEAUTY
Massimo Giorgetti's new rug collection for CC-Tapis takes Milan's 1960s metro system as a departure point
