Full Metal Alchemy
World of Watches|Spring 2020
The timepiece on a bracelet is the purest extension of the journey from the pocket to the wrist. We recount the importance of metal bracelets of all sorts – and chart the course of one storied manufacturer
Ashok soman
Full Metal Alchemy

Why is an entire section – or what amounts to one – devoted to bracelets necessary? The answer to that has its roots in the sort of climate we find ourselves in. The tropics can be brutal to leather straps of all types, and can even do rubber straps in. The bracelet, on the other hand, can be bathed in perspiration for decades and keep on trucking. Overall, bracelets are the way to go for daily beaters, even if you do not work outdoors – just getting from meeting to meeting can be a sweaty business.

The other reason for a long read on bracelets is that there are very few good sources of information on bracelets used in the watch trade. As far as the Swiss go, this is because the bracelet is excluded from the “Swiss Made” criteria, and will likely remain excluded. Trade magazines such as EuropaStar and WatchAround have explicitly made this point, noting that the network of external suppliers could not be deprived of the opportunity to work on bracelets, since they had to give up other aspects once the Swiss Made regulations were tightened a few years ago.

Practically speaking, this means that brands rarely talk up their bracelets, even when they introduce new designs. The previously referenced Hailwood-authored piece illustrates this as it mostly features original research and commentary, much like this story. The most notable exception as far as brand communication goes is Rolex, which maintains a full section in its press pack devoted to bracelets and clasps, as well as its manufacturing capabilities in producing its own bracelets. It is a reminder that Rolex actually bought up its own supplier in its efforts to vertically integrate its production (which you can read about elsewhere in this story because this supplier is an important part of the history of wristwatches.

Denne historien er fra Spring 2020-utgaven av World of Watches.

Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.

Denne historien er fra Spring 2020-utgaven av World of Watches.

Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.

FLERE HISTORIER FRA WORLD OF WATCHESSe alt
DARING VENTURE
World of Watches

DARING VENTURE

Tudor partners Swiss Watch For New Boutique at The Exchange TRX.

time-read
1 min  |
Legacy 2024
GEEKING OUT
World of Watches

GEEKING OUT

The biggest artisanal watch enthusiasts gather in Singapore for a weekend unlike any other in our region of the world.

time-read
1 min  |
Legacy 2024
INDEPENDENCE DAY
World of Watches

INDEPENDENCE DAY

Once seen as niche players, independent watchmakers are increasingly visible within the industry as reflected in this year's edition of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

time-read
10 mins  |
Legacy 2024
DYING OF THE LIGHT
World of Watches

DYING OF THE LIGHT

Hamilton updates the Khaki Field Murph once again, this time with a sparkling new white dial and a robust stainless steel bracelet.

time-read
2 mins  |
Legacy 2024
OPEN SECRET
World of Watches

OPEN SECRET

Ernest Borel left no stone unturned when creating the Grandeur Skeleton duo.

time-read
1 min  |
Legacy 2024
GOTHIC INSPIRED
World of Watches

GOTHIC INSPIRED

Ernest Borel's Grandeur Big Date leans into the famed European architectural movement.

time-read
1 min  |
Legacy 2024
LIGHT TOUCH
World of Watches

LIGHT TOUCH

Maurice Lacroix adds ultra-light titanium options to their ever-expanding Aikon collection.

time-read
2 mins  |
Legacy 2024
LAST WORD
World of Watches

LAST WORD

Longines introduces a smaller version of the Spirit Zulu, this time in titanium.

time-read
1 min  |
Legacy 2024
RACING PEDIGREE
World of Watches

RACING PEDIGREE

Bell & Ross brings the worlds of motoring and aerospace together in the BR-X5 Racing.

time-read
2 mins  |
Legacy 2024
AUTUMN HUE
World of Watches

AUTUMN HUE

Grand Seiko continues its celebration of the 20th anniversary of Calibre 9R with the limited edition SBGA499.

time-read
2 mins  |
Legacy 2024