Argentinian Malbec, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, Uruguayan Tannat – if you think that’s all there is to South American wine, read on. At first sight, most of the blends here are centred on these varieties, but closer inspection reveals a more complex and exciting picture. The quality of red blends is undeniable, particularly in Argentina and Chile, where respectively 81% and 75% of the wines I tasted rated Highly Recommended or better. I don’t consider myself a generous scorer, so that sets an impressive standard. Of the small sample of Uruguayan wines, 40% scored at least Highly Recommended.
The top four wines are outstanding Bordeaux blends from leading producers in Argentina and Chile. Far from being mere imitations of their French counterparts, however, they all reflect in different ways the unique character of their origins.
In each country, at least one other variety has emerged as a successful partner to the classic blends. Cabernet Franc features in most of my preferred Argentinian blends; it reins in the roundness of Malbec and adds precision and definition to its structure. In Chile, Syrah shows up in three of the chosen wines, combining successfully not only with deep-rooted Cabernet Sauvignon but perhaps more interestingly with Carmenère, where it adds fruit and volume to the blend. In Uruguay, Merlot made the winning combinations, bringing flesh and mid-palate fruit to the more savoury Tannat.
Traditional varieties such as Bonarda in Argentina and Cinsault in Chile from revived old vineyards deliver fantastic value; expect to see more of these styles emerging. I found adventurous Uruguayan blends of Tannat with Portuguese Sousão or Spanish Tempranillo. And there are signs that Rhône varieties have started to succeed in Argentina: watch this space (see p95, Syrah panel tasting).
Denne historien er fra October 2020-utgaven av Decanter.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent ? Logg på
Denne historien er fra October 2020-utgaven av Decanter.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
A Resource for the World? - Argentina is unique in the genetic diversity preserved in much of its vine material. With climate change and disease posing increasing threats worldwide, Catena Zapata winery is asking what lessons can be learned to protect vineyards within and beyond the nation's borders
Argentina is unique in the genetic diversity preserved in much of its vine material. With climate change and disease posing increasing threats worldwide, Catena Zapata winery is asking what lessons can be learned to protect vineyards within and beyond the nation’s borders
Great Cabernets of South America
Other varieties may hog the limelight across South America, but the world’s most popular grape for red wines has played a critical role in the continent's wine heritage. We trace Cabernet Sauvignon’s story here, and recommend 16 benchmark wines to try
PROVENCE by train and bike
With rail links to Paris, Nice, Marseilles and beyond, a vast network of cycle paths and quiet roads, and a plethora of historic wine estates, Provence is an ideal destination for an eco-friendly, car-free and carefree) holiday
IN THE MIX
These days most of the world’s vineyards are planted to just a single variety, but what happens when multiple varieties are planted, harvested and blended together?
Malvasia A BUYER'S GUIDE
If ever a grape was hard to pin down, it'd be Malvasia. Indeed it’s not even a single grape variety. In all of its many varied, and often completely unrelated guises, it has been the mainstay of popular wine styles across the centuries. Our expert takes a closer look...
RIBERA ADOPTS THE NEW OLD WAYS
It’s not so much a new direction for winemakers in Ribera del Duero, but a growing recognition that traditional methods and wine styles set aside by the previous generation can now provide a way ahead to revitalise the region
Roussanne around the world
Up for a challenge? For winemakers as much as wine drinkers, getting a handle on a mercurial grape such as Roussanne isn't easy. But wherever it's grown, when the balance is right, it truly repays the effort
Napa Cabernet 2021
There's a lot of excitement about this vintage, in which conditions were relatively calm and temperatures stable through summer. Ongoing drought reduced yields but intensified flavours, but it means quantities are down and you may need to act fast to secure top wines. Our Napa correspondent selects 60 great wines from more than 500 that he tasted, with many very high scores
10 reason to discover Uruguay
Squeezed between Brazil and Argentina on the Atlantic coast, Uruguay has mostly flown under the tourist radar - until now. Once dubbed 'the Switzerland of the Americas', it's a welcoming country that has much to offer the travelling wine lover
Leo Erazo
The old vines and special terroir of Itata, southern Chile, have beena source of inspiration for this intrepid winemaker. The 2023 fires were a setback, but his commitment to this ancient wine land is undiminished
