The Aromas Of Assam

The cuisine of Assam, though simple, is full of delicate flavours and indigenous fare.

- Naini Setalvad

The mighty Himalayan range, the Brahmaputra river, large forests, paddy fields, hills, tea gardens and the image of abundant rainfall instantly comes to my mind when I think of Assam, the land of amazing flora, fauna and natural beauty. Though not very well known, Assamese cuisine comprises simple cooking, using very little spices, which have strong flavours. I found plenty of foods in their daily diet that promote well-being. The staple food is rice, fish and an assortment of leafy greens growing in abundance due to the overflowing water bodies, ponds and the Brahmaputra river. Birds, chicken, duck and pork too are part of their cuisine.

Many years ago I had worked with a group from Assam and I was thrilled to know that Assam had over a 100 varieties of leafy greens including ferns, called Xaaks. Since most edible herbs and ferns grow in abundance in the wild, a lot of the produce is organic. Many of them have curative properties that are used in home remedies to soothe a sore throat, cure skin infections, prevent hair fall, or to bring relief in diseases like malaria, and jaundice.

It is a common practice here to have ferns and greens as side dishes at lunch and dinner. They are immunity-enhancing foods which prevent cancer cells from multiplying and even clean up clogged arteries. Since most grow wild in dense forest land, free of chemicals and pesticides, they naturally have higher nutrient content. They are a powerhouse of vitamins and minerals, are high in iron, calcium, beta-carotene and are great for bones, muscles, hair, skin and eyes.