Marrakech, Marhaba!

With its rose-tinted architecture, rich history and fascinating contrasts, the city of Marrakech has a solid foundation as Morocco’s cultural capital

- Mariola Fouche

Dodging legions of scooter-borne locals on our way to the heart of Marrakech, a taxi driver told me that negotiating in Morocco is something of a national sport. Newcomers will pretty much discover this as soon as they exit the city’s distinctly modern Menara Airport.

Designed by French firm CR Architecture and E2A Architecture of Casablanca, the new terminal’s striking rhomboid facade merges with contemporary lines, cultural motifs and high, glass-domed ceilings in a remarkable build – albeit one that gives the first-time visitor no inkling of the colourful, crowded milieu beyond.

AMONG ANCIENT ALLEYWAYS

An introduction to the medina – the oldest walled part of the city founded by the Almoravids, a Berber Muslim dynasty – could be described as a pleasant assault on the senses. Seasoned touts vie for your attention as you amble unsuspectingly through the entrance, shouting offers to show you the way to your hotel – at a price, naturally.

It’s just as well, because the only clues as to what lies behind the muted terracotta exteriors are ornate, studded doorways. Most are embellished with large door-knockers that signal guests are gladly received. In a country famed for its hospitality, ‘marhaba’ (‘welcome’) is a standard Arabic greeting from any Moroccan host.