NOW and then, I dream of a lobster mousse I once had at Le Gavroche in London’s Mayfair. Rich, imaginative, sublime: it has stayed with me not only as the finest meal I’ve had, but as a broader illustration of what excellence is. Today, lunchtime at Michel Roux Jnr’s great two-Michelin-starred restaurant is a different affair. Recent events have seen to that. Although your temperature isn’t taken at the door—as at post-Covid-19 Scott’s—the staff wear protective gear and must smile their welcome through visors. All the menus are disposable and single-use.
There is, however, welcome continuity in the cheerful and infectious presence of Mr Roux. Every lunchtime, he circles among his guests; you wouldn’t guess from his demeanour how much 2020 has upended his life. ‘We’ll have the virus for quite a while and have to mitigate the risks,’ he reflects. ‘It’s a very difficult thing to get your head round. Normally, you look at the future with an amount of certainty.’
In practice, what’s changed? As the 60 year old makes his lunchtime rounds, he weaves between four fewer tables. He also notes a decrease in larger parties—‘we have a lot of tables for two’—which further eats into his margins. Is he pessimistic? ‘Thankfully, we’ve been around a long time and have a loyal following,’ he explains. ‘But we’re on reduced covers because of social distancing, so it’s very difficult.’
At times such as these, pedigree matters. The chef’s father, Albert, and his uncle, Michel Snr (who died this year), opened Le Gavroche in 1967. Mr Roux has not only taken on the family mantle, but has already passed it on: his daughter, Emily, now runs La Caractère in London’s Notting Hill with her husband, Diego Ferrari.
Denne historien er fra November 04, 2020-utgaven av Country Life UK.
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Denne historien er fra November 04, 2020-utgaven av Country Life UK.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Kitchen garden cook - Apples
'Sweet and crisp, apples are the epitome of autumn flavour'
The original Mr Rochester
Three classic houses in North Yorkshire have come to the market; the owner of one inspired Charlotte Brontë to write Jane Eyre
Get it write
Desks, once akin to instruments of torture for scribes, have become cherished repositories of memories and secrets. Matthew Dennison charts their evolution
'Sloes hath ben my food'
A possible paint for the Picts and a definite culprit in tea fraud, the cheek-suckingly sour sloe's spiritual home is indisputably in gin, says John Wright
Souvenirs of greatness
FOR many years, some large boxes have been stored and forgotten in the dark recesses of the garage. Unpacked last week, the contents turned out to be pots: some, perhaps, nearing a century old—dense terracotta, of interesting provenance.
Plants for plants' sake
The garden at Hergest Croft, Herefordshire The home of Edward Banks The Banks family is synonymous with an extraordinary collection of trees and shrubs, many of which are presents from distinguished friends, garnered over two centuries. Be prepared to be amazed, says Charles Quest-Ritson
Capturing the castle
Seventy years after Christian Dior’s last fashion show in Scotland, the brand returned under creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri for a celebratory event honouring local craftsmanship, the beauty of the land and the Auld Alliance, explains Kim Parker
Nature's own cathedral
Our tallest native tree 'most lovely of all', the stately beech creates a shaded environment that few plants can survive. John Lewis-Stempel ventures into the enchanted woods
All that money could buy
A new book explores the lost riches of London's grand houses. Its author, Steven Brindle, looks at the residences of plutocrats built by the nouveaux riches of the late-Victorian and Edwardian ages
In with the old
Diamonds are meant to sparkle in candlelight, but many now gather dust in jewellery boxes. To wear them today, we may need to reimagine them, as Hetty Lintell discovers with her grandmother's jewellery
