THIS boy's (working) LIFE
Esquire|September 2021
When I was ten, my parents opened one of the first Thai restaurants in New Jersey. I started working in the kitchen before my voice broke. To us, the place was so much more than just a business. But as I grew into adulthood, what would my parents’ American dream mean for me?
KEVIN SINTUMUANG
THIS boy's (working) LIFE

I REMEMBER THE NIGHT MY DAD SLEPT IN OUR FAMILY’S restaurant. Broken glass was scattered across the floor of the storefront that I had swept hours earlier. The cash register was overturned. Nothing was in it but pennies. Some food was taken. It could have been worse.

That night, he came back with a foldable reclining beach chair—one of those things meant for sunbathing—and lay there, half-awake, with a gun inside a fanny pack. The next day, he boarded up the door with plywood. But he continued to sleep there, occasionally sitting in the restaurant’s Ford Econoline van when he was restless, tuning in to the smooth-jazz station on the radio, CD 101.9.

My sister and I didn’t understand. Was he waiting for the thieves to return? Did he just want some alone time with Kenny G? Where did he get a gun?

We never got a real explanation because, you know, dads.

What was clear to me, even at the time: He was going to protect this place like it was his own home. In many ways, it was, and not just for him but for all of us—especially for me.

CHAPTER ONE

In Which I Volunteer for Galley Service

From the time I was old enough to beat Super Mario Bros. 2, I shadowed my dad and hung around the restaurant every chance I got. It was like theater to be on the sidelines of a working kitchen. Long before the Food Network romanticized cooks and kitchens, I knew there was something special here. Listening to the hiss of noodles as they hit the surface of a fiery wok, followed by the gentle clank clank clank of a metal spoon incorporating the ingredients of a pad thai; breathing in the smell of curries simmering on the stove; watching cleavers chop through an order of gai yang, grilled chicken marinated in lemongrass, fish sauce, coriander, and ginger. This was my favorite dish as a kid, and I loved to sneak tastes of it.

Denne historien er fra September 2021-utgaven av Esquire.

Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.

Denne historien er fra September 2021-utgaven av Esquire.

Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.

FLERE HISTORIER FRA ESQUIRESe alt
hasan minhaj had a very strange year
Esquire US

hasan minhaj had a very strange year

The comedian felt the wrath of the Internet AND lost a career-defining job opportunity. NOW he's back with an interview series, A NEW NETFLIX SPECIAL, and a fresh perspective on his COMEDY.

time-read
4 mins  |
October/November 2024
the perfect girl friend
Esquire US

the perfect girl friend

Flirty, sexy, seductive, supportive. Your AI companion can be whatever you want her to be. And now a growing number of men are turning to bots to ease their loneliness or satisfy their kinks. The choices are endless. The emotions are real.

time-read
10+ mins  |
October/November 2024
thinker
Esquire US

thinker

Andrew Garfield has big ideas about life and death-even a theory about the nature of time. Over an afternoon at one of his favorite New York City haunts, the actor let us into his world.

time-read
10+ mins  |
October/November 2024
priceless
Esquire US

priceless

At Hermès, Axel de Beaufort will make whatever you imagine. Its value can be measured not in dollars but in the hours spent crafting it and the beauty it adds to the world.

time-read
9 mins  |
October/November 2024
shoes with staying power
Esquire US

shoes with staying power

The Shannon lace-up from Church's is a study in enduring style

time-read
1 min  |
October/November 2024
THE MIDLIFE CRISIS? TRY THE THREEQUARTER-LIFE QUANDARY.
Esquire US

THE MIDLIFE CRISIS? TRY THE THREEQUARTER-LIFE QUANDARY.

Black men's life expectancy is short, thanks to history. At 49, am I on the downslope?

time-read
6 mins  |
October/November 2024
HOW THE DEMOCRATS GOT THEIR GROOVE BACK
Esquire US

HOW THE DEMOCRATS GOT THEIR GROOVE BACK

They've been flinching ever since Reagan, but the party has finally figured out who they are.

time-read
5 mins  |
October/November 2024
WRITTEN ON THE BODY
Esquire US

WRITTEN ON THE BODY

As we age, we're fighting a losing battle against memory. Maybe that's why, in my 40s, I've tattooed myself with everything I can't bear to forget.

time-read
5 mins  |
October/November 2024
I Wore This Jacket to Death. Now It's Even Better.
Esquire US

I Wore This Jacket to Death. Now It's Even Better.

Menswear designer Aaron Levine, who helped revitalize brands like Abercrombie & Fitch and Club Monaco, explains why he reaches for his Carhartt again and again and again

time-read
1 min  |
October/November 2024
Check Yourself
Esquire US

Check Yourself

Todd Snyder and Woolrich have teamed up to create a new breed of wearable luxury fashion. The iconic buffalo plaid remains a staple.

time-read
2 mins  |
October/November 2024