NOTE TO SELF: Never get quarantined with Ignacio Mattos. The chef-owner of Estela, Altro Paradiso, and Flora Bar will make you look bad. Before we ordered one of the new “Take Us Home” provisions boxes he started selling about a month ago at Altro Paradiso in Hudson Square, we had deluded ourselves into thinking that the dishes flying out of the bustling Underground Gourmet quarantine kitchen were actually pretty good.
Now, having feasted for a couple of days on the contents of Altro’s to-go box after months removed from the pleasures and refinements of the restaurant world, we know better.
Here we were, thinking we were pretty slick ordering ingredients from the wholesale suppliers to restaurants like Mattos’s that have pivoted to home delivery. Here we were, stirring pots. Here we were, deglazing pans. Here we were, busting out the mortar and the pestle. Here we were, in short, cooking up a storm. And here we were—after tasting Mattos’s strozzapreti with basil-and-ramp pesto—wondering why.
Denne historien er fra June 8-21, 2020-utgaven av New York magazine.
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Denne historien er fra June 8-21, 2020-utgaven av New York magazine.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Trapped in Time
A woman relives the same day in a stunning Danish novel.
Polyphonic City
A SOFT, SHIMMERING beauty permeates the images of Mumbai that open Payal Kapadia's All We Imagine As Light. For all the nighttime bustle on display-the heave of people, the constant activity and chaos-Kapadia shoots with a flair for the illusory.
Lear at the Fountain of Youth
Kenneth Branagh's production is nipped, tucked, and facile.
A Belfast Lad Goes Home
After playing some iconic Americans, Anthony Boyle is a beloved IRA commander in a riveting new series about the Troubles.
The Pluck of the Irish
Artists from the Indiana-size island continue to dominate popular culture. Online, they've gained a rep as the \"good Europeans.\"
Houston's on Houston
The Corner Store is like an upscale chain for downtown scene-chasers.
A Brownstone That's Pink Inside
Artist Vivian Reiss's Murray Hill house of whimsy.
These Jeans Made Me Gay
The Citizens of Humanity Horseshoe pants complete my queer style.
Manic, STONED, Throttle, No Brakes
Less than six months after her Gagosian sölu show, the artist JAMIAN JULIANO-VILLAND lost her gallery and all her money and was preparing for an exhibition with two the biggest living American artists.
WHO EVER THOUGHT THAT BRIGHT PINK MEAT THAT LASTS FOR WEEKS WAS A GOOD IDEA?
Deli Meat Is Rotten
