Mexican Magnificence

Rick Bayless’ enthusiasm for authentic cuisine has brought a delightful restaurant to Disney Springs.

- Joseph Hayes

HAVING ONLY “MET” multi-award winning chef Rick Bayless through his PBS television show, I imagined I would find a quiet and confident advocate of Mexican cuisine when I came to talk to him at Frontera Cocina, his sleek fast-casual Mexican restaurant at Disney Springs. Who I discovered behind his open, Midwestern smile was an enthusiastic fan of authentic food, as happy to talk about cheese from the state of Chihuahua in the queso fundido as he was to recommend cutting-edge chefs in Mexico City.

Bayless brings a wealth of experience to his latest endeavor, open since June 2016. Eight James Beard awards, nine restaurants including the Michelin-starred Topolobampo, nine cookbooks and a groundbreaking career on television have cemented Bayless’ reputation as a champion of traditional Mexican cuisine. If you’re expecting a premium-priced version of Taco Bell, filled with fajitas and chimichangas, you’ll be wrong; cuisine at casa Bayless takes its inspirations from the rugged terrain of Oaxaca and the Yucatan’s Mayan influences, not Tex-Mex fare.

Coctel verde ($14) is a delight of poached Mazatlán blue shrimp and bay scallops, dressed ceviche-style in lime, avocado and sharp pepper-tomatillo salsa. It’s a palate-refreshing starter for the carne asada entrée ($34), fork-tender Black Angus steak steeped in garlic and red chilies, served with refrito black beans, caramelized plantains and tangy tomatillo salsa.

I liked the simplicity of Frontera’s tortas, a crusty bread roll stuffed with achiote-seasoned pork shoulder ($15), or wild mushrooms flavored with chipotle-garlic mojo, chipotle salsa and goat cheese ($14). And I could eat the spicy Yucatecan pumpkin seed sikil pak dip ($9) by the bowl.