From The Heart

Chef Damian D’silva may have found fame with his previous restaurants, but the latest one, Kin, is his real passion project. Grace Ma finds out why as she tucks into heritage goodness in all its full glory

Chef Damian D’Silva is smiling as he watches us – two journalists – beaming with happiness in between mouthfuls of Daun Pegaga, an Asian pennywort salad with tomato, mint and lime-shallot oil dressing; and a very moist Chi Pow Kai, boneless paper-wrapped chicken cooked in “pop’s marinade”. I am trying not to look too greedy, but my spoon keeps extending for more helpings.

We are at D’Silva’s new 70-seat restaurant, Kin, which is a partnership between the chef and The Lo & Behold Group. It replaces the former Dining Room at the lobby of private members’ club Straits Clan, which means nonmembers have to be quick in booking the limited seats allocated to the public.

“Have you eaten Chi Pow Kai without oyster sauce, which kills everything? That’s the taste you get in here,” says the former MasterChef Singapore judge, pointing at the glistening meat made with his chef grandfather’s recipe, wrapped money bag-style to prevent the oil from seeping through and making a greasy mess when placed in the fryer. “If I didn’t tell you, you’d say that it was baked.”