The Wizards Of Odd

How Patek Philippe navigates the fine line between genius and madness.

- Celine Yap

Would it surprise you to know that Patek Philippe is a master of surprises? We are all aware that it is a classic manufacture, but Patek Philippe wouldn’t be renowned as today’s undisputed industry leader if it didn’t always keep a few extra tricks up its sleeve. As brand president Thierry Stern tells us, he always tries to maintain an 80 to 20 ratio of so-called classic Patek Philippe pieces and the weird but wonderful creations that turn heads and drop jaws. These are the ones that are labelled very quickly as ‘acquired tastes’, but eventually and inevitably come to be recognised as veritable icons.

You’ll spot them easily enough. At the Baselworld watch fair each year, Patek Philippe’s stunning allglass facade proudly displays all its novelties – from dressy gent’s models and complications to the most breathtaking artisanal pieces. But there’s always that one particular showcase that’s perpetually shrouded by visitors; where people have to wait in line to see what all the fuss is about. And because it’s Patek Philippe, that’s what everyone does.

In 2019 it was the Calatrava Ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar, and to a lesser extent the Calatrava Pilot Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520. In 2015 it was the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524. On each occasion, Patek Philippe pulled the rug from under our feet by releasing a watch that everyone was convinced did not belong in its collection. Both times, collectors, customers and aficionados of the brand – in other words, people who are more than familiar with its brand DNA – threw their hands up unanimously and asked, “Why?”