Most travellers dismiss Portugal’s Algarve as a whirlwind of booze and beaches, but its quiet east is a land of wild walks, lagoons and historic villages waiting to be explored…
The region’s long-held reputation as a playground for sun-blasted Brits on tour isn’t entirely unfounded. Trawl west of Faro and you’ll soon see that side to the Algarve. Indeed, the airport is all that most of Faro’s 3 million yearly arrivals ever see of its regional capital even, let alone the fishing villages and raw coast towards the Spanish border.
Escape east, however, and that other side emerges. This is the Algarve of deserted sands, half-forgotten islands, wild wetlands and boat-fresh seafood all served up in whitewashed villages. It’s an ancient land alive with Moorish ghosts and tall tales of lost Portuguese adventurers. But to most visitors that come here, it might as well not exist.
I was determined to explore this overlooked corner after a Portuguese friend insisted it was not only their favourite part of the Algarve, but in all of Portugal. It seemed a bold claim, but one I was eager to test, starting with the most overlooked part of all: Faro itself, the forgotten capital.
A taste of the east
My first stop in the city was Faro y Benfica, a seafood restaurant that lies on the edge of the marina – an area that, unlike Vilamoura in the western Algarve, is home to a flurry of fishing boats rather than millionaire’s yachts.
Denne historien er fra July/August 2019-utgaven av Wanderlust Travel Magazine.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent ? Logg på
Denne historien er fra July/August 2019-utgaven av Wanderlust Travel Magazine.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Vermont, USA
The Wanderlust team relocated to New England for part of this issue, as we explored a lush state filled with outdoor escapes, historic towns... and lashings of maple syrup
Unique North America
See a side to the USA and Canada beyond the big cities and discover incredible stories and special wildlife with our pick of the trips
The call of the Rockies
From historic ski lodges to rustic backcountry cabins and a mock-Scottish castle, we pick the stays in Canada's Rocky Mountains that make the most of their setting
A new dawn for the Garifuna community
When the Garifuna people settled in Belize, they had to carry their traditions and culture with them; now a new trail is inviting visitors to explore this heritage through local communities
On the edge of history
In south-west Colorado lies the largest archaeological preserve in the USA, a series of vast cliff dwellings whose residents 'vanished' overnight. But was the answer to their disappearance in plain sight?
Tigers burning bright
As India celebrates 50 years of its Project Tiger conservation scheme, we visit the reserves of Madhya Pradesh to see how its success has impacted a tiger population that once looked in danger of disappearing
SEASON'S GREETINGS
From fiery fall foliage to art fairs and harvest festivals, opens up a wealth of across the USA and Canada autumn experiences
Waking a sleeping GIANT
A slow drive along the North Wales Way, from the English border to Anglesey, reveals not only a land of incredible local food and castles, but a region that is slowly reimagining itself
The rebirth of old JEDDAH
As efforts to restore Al-Balad, Jeddah's historical district, take hold, we get an exclusive peek at how art and culture are taking centre stage
Star-studded escapes
Wilderness, history and wildlife combine at some of Britain's most iconic stargazing sites, as more and more travellers are looking to the heavens