Miranda Oakley’s Impressive Path to Become the First Woman to Solo the Nose in a Day
AUGUST 5, 2016. Yosemite Valley, California. The thermometer pushes triple digits. The solar oven of El Capitan radiates sunshine while a small dot races up the Nose (VI 5.9 C2), passing Texas Flake, cruising the Boot, nailing the King Swing, and heading through the Gray Bands. Up a pitch, down the same pitch, then back up again, the soloist covers three times the vertical terrain a partnered climber would.
August 6, 2016. Fort Collins, Colorado. I scan Facebook. The glowing screen offers the typical scrollbait. Then, a post from George Oakley, the father of my college buddy Miranda Oakley: “I just found out that Miranda did a solo climb of El Cap in 21 hours, 50 minutes. This broke her old time of just under 27. Way to go, Miranda. I hope you don’t have to work today.”
For the past 27 years, Valley speed climbers have rope soloed the Nose in a day, but no female had broken the 24hour mark, despite attempts by veterans Jes Meiris, Josie McKee, and Chantel Astorga. Until Miranda.
ON JUNE 21, 1984, Miranda Negla Oakley was born to mother, Arjunia, a special ed teacher and Palestinian immigrant to the United States, and father, George, a music teacher and American. Living in Maryland, the couple had always engaged in social justice issues, and that didn’t stop with the arrival of their first child.
“Miranda went to her first anti-war rally before she could walk,” says Arjunia, who is now an American citizen. “And I took her with me to meetings of the Palestine Aid Society, [which provides] humanitarian aid for Palestinians.”
Denne historien er fra Issue 151-utgaven av Climbing.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent ? Logg på
Denne historien er fra Issue 151-utgaven av Climbing.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
"Cliff Camping": The Latest Bucket-List Tick
WHILE WE CLIMBERS only camp hanging on a wall when we have to, for many in the non-climbing public, portaledge camping ticks a box on their bucket list.
The Freerider
What it took to free solo El Capitan
Welcome To Sendhaus TM: America's Hippest New Climbing Gym
HELLO AND THANK YOU SO MUCH for visiting our newest Sendhaus™ Fitness, Lifestyle, and Climbing Center.
Climbing For Mental Health
WE OFTEN TALK ABOUT the mental side of climbing, like how to overcome fear, visualize success, and be a better overall climber.
Kodak Courage
Are climbers taking more chances for the camera?
It's Not A Free Solo, It's A Highball, DAD!
OH. MY. GOD. Stop worrying! You and mom are such babies. I’m not going to “kill myself climbing without a rope” because that doesn’t even make sense. I’m a boulderer. You can’t boulder with a rope because then it wouldn’t be bouldering. Roped climbing is for losers: Do I look like I’d hangdog for an hour wearing orange pants and doing jazz hands so I can climb five more feet to the next bolt and then do it again? I know you saw Alex Honnold on 60 Minutes and suddenly you think you know everything about climbing. But, uh, actually? You don’t know anything. What I do is called HIGHBALL BOULDERING, not FREE SOLOING, and it’s completely different.
Next-Gen Visualization
IMAGINE ADAM ONDRA lying on his back, eyes squeezed shut in concentration, while a physiotherapist holds his heel in space, helping him visualize and strengthen his body specifically for a move.
Pink Rain
Pink Rain
Southern Super Nova
Thirty-plus Years Ago, Driven First Ascensionist Rob Robinson Discovered the Tennessee Wall. In His Career, He’s Authored Hundreds of New Routes and Dramatically Expanded Chattanooga Climbing.
Green Ice
The Comprehensive Ice and Mixed Climbing of Vermont.