Forest Thump

Once a nation in turmoil, Rwanda is now an adored wildlife destination. There is courage in its revival and grandeur in its beauty

- Rumela Basu

I froze in my tracks. As Muhoza walked towards me, my heart beat quicker. His steps were measured and graceful. He was sheer muscle; 200 kilograms of it. His fur gleamed as he turned his back. He’d found his spot. A silverback mountain gorilla, Muhoza munched on leaves. Standing in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, the last remaining habitat of the mountain gorilla, I was his guest. His family—two juvenile males and the young female Gobito with a child on her back—soon ventured out of the bushes. The wide eyed child regarded us with curiosity before snuggling back to its mother. Unlike a safari, visiting the mountain gorilla in Rwanda is a more intimate experience. There is no covered vehicle that gives you safe distance. I shared with Mohuza his living quarters.

Located in the volcanic Virungas Mountains that straddle the borders of Rwanda, Uganda and Democratic Republic of the Congo, the Volcanoes National Park is one of the oldest nature reserves in Africa. Having worked here for over three decades, François , our guide, knew these parts well. Before our group of eight began trekking, he had warned us that this was going to be a tough climb. We had, I reminded myself, opted for the easy route. Of the 20 gorilla families that live in the nature reserve, only 10 can be visited by travellers. The others live deep in the jungle and can only be seen by researchers. François had a clear set of instructions: We were the visitors here; the gorillas were free to do as they please, and if any of them approached us, which they did sometimes, we were to keep our heads down, be still and let them be. The message seemed clear—play it cool.