Estonia

An impeccably preserved medieval capital, unspoilt wildernesses, cutting-edge galleries and a thriving sauna culture make the Baltic nation an alluring European escape. Words: Jamie Lafferty

- By Jamie Lafferty. Photographs by Getty, Visit Estonia, Alamy and Jamie Lafferty

In many ways, Estonia can be a little hard to pin down. There are clear cultural parallels with its Nordic neighbor, Finland, across the water, but a centuries-long relationship with Russia — including the former Soviet Union — mean things are a little more complicated. Ever focused on the future, this nation in northeast Europe has carved its own niche and offers something entirely unique for a short-haul escape.

What to expect? The secret of Tallinn’s Old Town — all cobbled lanes, slender-steepled churches, and medieval architecture — has long been out, but the Estonian capital is also a modern and progressive city, too, and a burgeoning hub of creativity and technology.

The cuisine will also catch first-time visitors by surprise, with dishes drawing heavily on the excellence of the produce coming from Estonia’s remarkable larder. The country has no shortage of space for producers, either — head out of Tallinn and you’ll quickly see just how sparsely populated a nation this is. Without people, animals have moved in to fill the wild, wooded wilderness, and a trip to one of Estonia’s national parks can include meetings with bears, elk and wolves. Throw in beautiful baroque mansions, excellent beer and established sauna culture, and there’s suddenly far more here than you can possibly squeeze into one weekend.

DAY ONE CITY & SEA

MORNING