Rising to the occasion

In a land where black bread graces almost every table, Kenneth Karjane and Eva Kõrvas — the duo behind one of Tallinn’s most celebrated bakeries — serve up an Estonian feast

- DELLE CHAN

It’s a frigid -11C morning in the Estonian capital and the city has frosted over. Fat, fluffy snowflakes are cascading from the sky, blanketing the streets in inches of soft, sugary powder. It’s the perfect weather for curling up by the fire, but instead I’m out and about on an Estonian food trail.

I’m spending the day with Kenneth Karjane and Eva Kõrvas, the affable young duo behind Tallinn’s immensely popular Karjase Sai bakery. We’re trundling along an icy road in a bus headed south for the village of Rahula, in Harju County, where Eva’s family owns a little farm. Despite being locals, they’re enchanted by the snow. “I haven’t seen this kind of weather in a long time,” says Eva, peering out the window.

It might be one of the coldest days of the year but the welcome I’m about to receive is as warm as I could have hoped for. As we open the gate to the farm, two enormous dogs, Hagu and Gusta, come bounding across the snow to greet us, tails wagging frantically. Close behind is Eva’s youthful mother, Egle Kõrvas, a wide smile etched on her face.