Scotland's Free Spirits

In a country known for its whisky, a new generation of distillers is experimenting with spirits, producing creations like seaweed-infused rum, pea-based a vodka and a distinctly scottish absinthe. Take a trip down the coast, from aberdeenshire to fife, and sip something new.

- Lucy Gillmore

As I wind my way through the luminous landscape of Royal Deeside, with its sparkling river, peridot pastures and patches of vivid green woodland, I shiver with anticipation. In this storybook setting, I’m in search of a misunderstood spirit — a famous green fairy uncommon to these parts.

Absinthe exerts a powerful grip on the imagination, perhaps more so than any other drink, summoning up visions of belle époque Paris and artistic excess. And now, in rural Aberdeenshire, far from the City of Light, it’s the preoccupation of Pete Dignan, who’s set up a craft distillery to produce absinthe in the heart of Scotland’s whisky country.

A herbal remedy originating in Switzerland in the 18th century, absinthe became popular in France after the Great French Wine Blight, which devastated vineyards in the 1860s. But with an alcohol content of as much as 74%, it’s a drink with a reputation — and as its popularity grew, it was demonised by both the temperance movement and the wine industry. Finally, in 1915, absinthe was banned in France, having already been outlawed in several other countries around the world.

But never in Scotland. “We don’t like to ban alcohol here,” says Pete, with a wry smile.

Pete and his business partner, Richard Pierce, run Lost Loch Spirits, one of several pioneering outfits taking Scottish spirits in an exciting new direction. This land of whisky-lovers is now home to a new generation of artisan distillers, producing everything from vodka and rum to vermouth and eau de vie. There’s even a Scottish gin trail, curated by Visit Scotland.