Grande Dame

After an impressive refurbishment, the Taj Connemara has reclaimed its spot as the iconic Chennai property.

- Amit Dixit

In my suite at the Taj Connemara I was greeted by a welcome note, the envelope secured with a red lac seal that simply said ‘Taj Connemara: Since 1891’, setting a distinctly classy tone to proceedings. Of course, the hotel is much older, opening as the Imperial in 1854. Some say it is South India’s oldest. The building is even more venerable, having earlier served as a guesthouse for visitors to one of the palaces of the Nawab of Arcot. In 1891, the hotel was renamed in honour of the Baron of Connemara. Lady Connemara also stayed here for a year and a saucy tale hangs by it, but you must visit yourself and let the staff spill the beans. Laterrun by mega-retailers Spencer and Co, it was the venue for classy dinner parties and elegant balls. It was also one of the first places to introduce centralized air-conditioning, which must have been a blessing in sultry Madras. I soon had history oozing out of my ears.

It was after a two-year refurbishment that the Taj Connemara had a much-anticipated relaunch late last year. It lit up Chennai’s otherwise quiet party calendar. Luminaries like Anand Amritraj and The Hindu’s N. Ram turned up, not to mention the unassuming chairman of Tata Sons, N. Chandrasekaran. We could all have been in an F. Scott Fitzgerald novel—if only the idlis hadn’t been so good. Most of the partygoers retired at 11 sharp, reminding us that this was still Chennai.