Sharing The Savannah

Tented camp in Botswana offers visitors the chance to observe wildlife up close

- Gillian McLaren

Tuskers Bush Camp in Botswana – between the Nxai Pan National Park in the east and Moremi Game Reserve in the west – is a classic tented safari camp, deep in acacia scrub and mopane woodland, where elephants roam freely.

In front of the main dining tent, boma and bar is a waterhole, where breeding herds of elephants come and go throughout the day and night. The pachyderms linger to greet one another, to swim and play, or move in to simply slake their thirst. I am riveted to the scene, as it is a privilege to witness such behaviour and interaction – not to simply spot this popular member of the famed Big Five.

Tiny elephants are particularly cute to watch, as they have no control over their trunks and have to develop that skill. Mothers and aunties are most solicitous of these infants, watching them and guiding them with their skilled trunks, taking care to shield the babies from other animals that visit the waterhole. A mother – the apparent matriarch of the group – trumpets loudly when she considers the youngsters to be in any kind of danger.