FROM THE PLANE, I looked down on a patchwork of emerald palm groves, rows of silver olive trees, and vast salt-ringed lakes that seemed to glow in psychedelic shades of cerulean and aquamarine. Surrounding these pockets of lushness was an ocean of sand, and the combination filled me with a sense of isolation that was almost overwhelming.
I was about to land in Siwa, an oasis in Egypt that includes a town of 20,000 people, a few historically significant sites, and a handful of small hotels. It lies about 563 kilometres west of Cairo as the crow flies, and 48 kilometres east of the Libyan border.
My journey had been more than 20 years in the making, sparked by a conversation with Peter Beard, the legendary photographer, artist, and writer. He had told me that one of his favourite hotels was a place called Adrère Amellal, which resembled a fortress made of sand in Egypt's Western Desert.
The hotel was in Siwa, a place that, he explained, was part of Egypt but had the feeling of an independent state: for millennia, generations of Berber tribes had lived there under their own laws. The heart of ancient Siwa was Shali (now also known as the Old Town), a fortified village built in the 13th century to protect the community from attacks by neighboring tribes.
In 1926, a series of massive rainstorms destroyed many of Shali's buildings, which were made kershef, a mixture of salt and clay. And while some of those structures still stand, the residents of modern Siwa-the majority of whom are descendants of the Berbers-live nearby in homes made of stone. The streets buzz with motorbikes and vendors selling falafel and fresh aish baladi, the ubiquitous traditional flatbread.
Denne historien er fra June 2023-utgaven av Travel+Leisure India.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent ? Logg på
Denne historien er fra June 2023-utgaven av Travel+Leisure India.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Retro: Timeless & Trending
As AI dominates the tech world, Nikhil Chawla introduces devices and apps that evoke nostalgia with their retro charm and timeless appeal.
Celebrating Timeless Austin
Austin is a melting pot of culture and style, and a personification of the great American lifestyle,
A Legacy of Art and Activism
Mallika Sarabhai reflects on her rich heritage as she discusses her unique approach to blending tradition with modernity, the power of arts in activism and her commitment to bringing about social change, in this conversation with Dipali Patwa.
Second Course
Noma chef René Redezpi found fame with ingredient-focused fine dining. His new TV show goes even further.
The Safari Sanctuary
Aamaghati Wildlife Resort, Ranthambore’s latest opening, offers the finest facilities and accommodation in the district and has the park embedded deep inside its soul.
THE ETERNAL FLAVOURS of our TIMELESS CLASSICS
India's most-loved restaurants have all stood the test of time, especially in an era when food ventures open with vast market research and modern aesthetics but fail to make a lasting impression. This is what makes our favourites timeless.
LATE CHECK OUT WITH Ayushmann Churrana
A film with a social message, a deeply inspiring couplet, a music tour that lets him explore his alter ego of sorts—what makes Ayushmann Khurrana the right fit in everything he chooses to do?
Luxury Legacy
Meet Tikka Shatrujit Singh, the visionary who paved the way for luxury brands to thrive in India. One of the most iconic figures in India's fashion and luxury industry, the former head representative of LVMH in Asia tells Samreen Tungekar about his journey, what today's consumer wants, and how Indian tourism can turn the world on its head.
Global Glamour
Attention shopaholics, we've got you covered! From Copenhagen to Cape Town, Marrakech to Melbourne, here are 20 cities across the world where you can indulge in retail therapy. Follow our guide to get your hands on traditional, bespoke, sustainable, slow fashion, and innovative, kitschy must-haves.
ARTISTIC INGENUITY MEETS ARCHITECTURAL SPLENDOUR
Architect Simran Boparai's skilled designs blend modernity with heritage, while striving for spatial excellence.