Breede River Beauties

Witsand and Infanta are on opposite sides of the Breede River estuary. Each has a unique appeal – and both are worth a visit.

- Kyra Tarr

Where is everyone?

The thought nags at me as I sit on a bench overlooking Witsand’s main beach. Behind me, the parking lot is deserted except for the Renault Duster that photographer Shelley

Christians and I came herein. At the far end of the parking lot is The Anchorage Beach Restaurant, a block-like structure made less imposing by its cheerful blue-and-white paint job. It’s early September and a trail of smoke rises from the chimney, merging with the fog blowing in off the ocean.

I scan the horizon in vain for southern right whales. If only the weather would lift! Hermanus might offer more famous land-based whale watching, but this is South Africa’s true whale nursery. In 2013, the Mammal Research Institute of South Africa counted 82 calves with their mothers in this bay alone – a record number.

Fog still hovers over the water and I’m reminded of an expression I learned while I was traveling in notoriously dark and damp Ireland: “They say the clouds are lower in Ireland. I say Ireland is closer to heaven.”

Perhaps a similar theory applies to Witsand. Shelley is five months pregnant and needs a nail file immediately, or else. Having survived my older sister’s pregnancies, I know it’s best not to ask questions and execute the request as soon as possible. That’s how I find myself browsing the aisles of The Sands for fruit pastilles, while Shelley hunts for toiletries.

A woman with a clipboard and a British accent comes over to ask if I need any help. She’s Judy Haigh-Smith, co-owner of the general dealer, one of two in town. There’s no Spar or Checkers in Witsand.

“It’s a town of swallows, darling,” she says. “During December it fills up with tourists and the like, but now we’re extremely quiet. I even have to send some of my staff home because there simply isn’t enough to do.”