Where The Dunes Roar… Or Whisper

When you arrive at Wits and Nature Reserve, you’re met with an unusual sight: white sand dunes next to the characteristic red dunes of the Kalahari. Gemsbok and springbok graze in the veld, knowing that there are no big predators to worry about. But then a roar echoes through the landscape…

- Martinette Louw

When you visit the Kalahari, you expect red dunes. So, when you see a strip of white dunes rising up in the distance – about 9km long and 5km wide – you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s a mirage.

These dunes are part of Witsand Nature Reserve (35km²), which is almost right in the middle of a big block of farms between Upington, Olifantshoek, Griekwastad, and Groblershoop, at the foot of the Langberg. The color of the sand is caused by a layer of quartzite rock deep under the dunes. This impenetrable rock layer forms a basin where rain- and groundwater accumulates – an estimated 1211 millionm³ under the dunes! Over the years, the iron oxide that colours Kalahari dunes red has leached from the sand and left it a pale white.

But the real attraction here is not how the dunes look, but how they sound. In warm, dry conditions, the sand on the southern slopes of the southernmost dunes in the reserve emits a growling sort of roar.

It’s September 2020 and “only” 26°C, but I go see if the dunes have something to say anyway. John Martin, the reserve’s facility manager, accompanies me to the Roaring Sands area.