Living Her Truth

There’s A World Of Creativity And Intrigue Going On Inside The Mind Of Nigerian Designer Amaka Osakwe, As Afika Jadezweni Discovers

- Afika Jadezweni

Amaka Osakwe is the founder and designer of internationally acclaimed Nigerian fashion label Maki Oh, which has been worn by the likes of style aficionados Solange, Michelle Obama and Issa Rae. Through her label’s trailblazing contemporary designs, Amaka has captured that transitional mood between the late ’80s, when fashion became less apologetic, and the birth of ‘angry fashion’ in the ’90s.

Maki Oh is still a fledgling label, having been created in 2010, yet the support it has won both in its home city of Lagos and internationally is a triumph for global Africanism in the sartorial sphere. But who is Amaka Osakwe the woman?

You started Maki Oh at a time when issues of politics, pop culture, social dynamics and feminism were very different to the way they are now. How has your label evolved since its inception in 2010?

There’s still a very long road ahead for feminism and, more importantly, womanism, so not much will change in my label. It’s integral to what I do and will continue to do.

Besides art and culture, what else inspires your creativity?

The mundane – auras and people. I also really love learning about anything and everything through research. Details are key.

Can you tell us about Adire, your signature textile-dyeing technique?

Adire is a traditional Nigerian resist-dyeing technique using natural indigo. Traditionally, the motifs had a hidden meaning, and were used and passed down as methods of communication and conversation for more than 100 years. At Maki Oh, we dye Adire using many of the traditional motifs and methods to keep this culture alive, and we also create new motifs.

What was the first garment you ever designed?