In Creole New Orleans, the holidays come with rum and clementines.
After many decades spent traveling in the Caribbean around the holidays, I can now understand the subtle signs that Christmas is coming. In Jamaica and Puerto Rico, it’s the appearance of fresh pigeon peas at the market. In Guadeloupe, the sounds of pork being hacked on wooden tables portend the roasts being prepared for the holiday meal. For me though, the holiday is not seen through crispy pork cracklings and peas and rice; rather it has a yellow-orange hue, the colors of citrus, because while I’ve adopted many of the traditions of my Caribbean friends, it’s my home in New Orleans that remains the locus of my Christmas celebrations.
There, I know the holiday season is upon us when I round the corner to my house and see my neighbor’s lemon tree overflowing with fruit, so abundant that they’ve begun to fall to the ground. Out my back door, the grapefruits hang from one tree in round globes, the Meyer lemons are plump and ready to pick, and the kumquats are dotting their tree like so many holiday decorations.
Denne historien er fra December 2017 - January 2018-utgaven av Saveur.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Denne historien er fra December 2017 - January 2018-utgaven av Saveur.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Raising a Better Bird
Blue Apron founder Matt Wadiak has moved onto greener pastures, where happy chickens roam free.
One Good Bottle
Tamara Irish is a natural winemaker. Way natural.
My Not-So-Secret Garden
Good (vegetable-laden) fences make good neighbors in one tiny town.
Pralines: How They Cook 'Em in New Orleans
Pralines: How They Cook ’Em in New Orleans
My Father's French Onion Soup
Postwar Paris had a lifelong influence on James Edisto Mitchell—both as an artist and a cook BY Shane Mitchell
Our All-Time Best Recipes
If anyone should know if a recipe’s a keeper, it’s the person tasked with making sense of the original instructions—from the far reaches of Sri Lanka, say, or a famous chef who measures nothing. This might explain why many test kitchen staffers named favorites that their predecessors had tested and recommended. (Though a couple put forth recipes they developed themselves.) And while Saveur never shies away from the oddball authentic ingredient, the fare on the following pages is the stuff we cook at home, over and over again. Consider it global comfort food.
Genever Is the Original Juniper Spirit
Don’t call it a comeback. Or gin
Tending The Bines
Overshadowed by high-end viticulture, the art of growing hops for beer might not always get the recognition it deserves.
Field Of Dreams
The son of an innovative pea farmer is carrying on his father’s legacy.
Jamaican Jerk Marinade - Fire And Spice
Jamaican jerk is more than a marinade—it’s a smoky, flame-grilled cooking style that uses the best ingredients of its home island.
