PARADISE FOUND

Indulge your inner hedonist with the ultimate luxe break in Vietnam's enchanting coastal regions

-  LARA KILNER

HỘI AN

If you see only one city in Vietnam, make it Hôi An. Atmospheric and utterly enchanting, this former trading port on the central coast has a rich history and is a UNESCO world heritage site.

As a stop on the ancient silk route, Hôi An was front and centre of the spice trade and it is still a huge player in the textiles industry, with tailors custom-making clothes at purse-friendly prices. The old town, with its French colonial architecture and mustard-coloured merchants' houses, is wonderful to wander through, by day or night, when the whole city is lit by lanterns. The riverside is packed with bars and cafés from which to watch the world go by.

WHERE TO STAY

For a proper treat or a special occasion, the Four Seasons Nam Hai Resort is utterly seamless, luxury perfection. Part of the A-list crowd's hotel group of choice, the Hôi An outpost is beachside, and just a few miles outside the city.

Made up of private villas, it has two stunning restaurants - with the most majestic buffet and à la carte breakfast we've had anywhere in the world - and The Heart of the Earth Spa.

For a high-end resort, it's super family friendly - kids are welcome everywhere at all times, and there's an action-packed club that does everything from lantern making to gardening classes.

WHAT TO DO

For a real assault on the senses, explore Hôi An's old town market. In the evening stalls sell trinkets and art, but by day, it's not just tourists, but locals hustling to buy everything from fresh fish to chilli sauce, herbs, noodles and the local coffee - and yes, there is a variety made from beans that have been digested and "released" by weasels.