Masters of Them All

In August, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla entered its 37th year in the Indian fashion business. Despite what feels like eons, the designers ABU JANI and SANDEEP KHOSLA have managed to not only stay relevant but also continued to set the bar high for others with their work. Ashwini Arun Kumar talks with the duo about their whirlwind journey that’s dotted with iconic bridal couture

- Ashwini Arun Kumar

Deepika Padukone’s ivory wedding reception sari; Priyanka Chopra’s kaleidoscopic mehendi outfit – a skirt-cum-lehenga hybrid; Sonam Kapoor’s fabled off-white panelled lehenga and backless blouse, inundated with every type of embroidery under the sun that took artisans 18 months to make. If these don’t ring a bell, then Kareena Kapoor’s on-screen wedding ensemble in Veere Di Wedding will. Featuring an off-shoulder blouse and pearl fringes instead of sleeves, the 25-year-old archival piece made headlines when it was rejigged for the movie. All these bridal outfits that have achieved cult status in pop culture history have one thing in common – all of them bear the fingerprints of the designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla whose Midas touch has made them iconic.

In the 36 years since opening their first boutique Mata Hari in Mumbai in November 1986 and designing their first collection of the same name, the two have designed outfits that have inspired a barrage of designers that have come after them. They have also heralded trends, started multiple brands – Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, ASAL by Abu Sandeep, MARD by Abu Sandeep, and Gulabo by Abu Sandeep, been quintessential in establishing the sartorial identity of several celebrities, and even designed weddings. As if creating couture were not enough, they started a new production company La Filmi Compania, where they showcase it via fashion films. To better understand the wondrous minds of these multi-hyphenates, we speak with the master couturiers to chronicle the highlights of their 35-plus-year career.

For the uninitiated: How did the label come to be? What prompted you to aspire to a career in fashion, especially since neither of you is from a design school?