The Thrill of the Chase
As I join a video call with Johnny Valencia, the founder of Pechuga Vintage, I notice his attention split between two screens: his phone’s, where he’s talking to me from Los Angeles, and his computer’s, where he’s scrutinizing an online auction of Mouna Ayoub’s Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld collection. The French Lebanese socialite is doing away with 252 pieces from her substantial haute couture archive, and Valencia is eyeing the magnificent black silk crepe gown from Chanel’s 1992 couture collection that Christy Turlington first wore on the runway, and that Lily-Rose Depp reintroduced at the 2019 Met Gala.
“I like to see myself as a vessel for transitory beauty,” says Valencia with a laugh. The vintage dealer, who started his business officially in 2018 after years of amateur thrifting amid a career in the buying team at Vivienne Westwood, is part of a new generation of fiercely proactive hunters whom fashion fanatics around the world enlist to find the buzziest and most highly sought-after vintage of the moment. That one archive Chanel fall 1991 belt that Linda Evangelista wore on the runway? Valencia’s got it. The elusive Marc Jacobs Kiki boots? Doja Cat bought them from his shop.
Denne historien er fra March 2024-utgaven av Vogue US.
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Denne historien er fra March 2024-utgaven av Vogue US.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Time After Time
In this artful jamboree of archival pieces, creativity and extraordinary craftsmanship form the connective thread. Meanwhile, Amanda Harlech recalls reinventing the future-by looking behind her.
INTO THE WILD
Post-Succession, Sarah Snook embarked on twin adventures: motherhood and a kaleidoscopic stage challenge in The Picture of Dorian Gray.
Time's Arrow
An intimate falling-in-and-out-of-love musical, The Last Five Years, arrives on Broadway-with star power to spare.
LIGHT LANDSCAPE, LIFE
David Hockney's paintings can be read as his life story. But a new exhibition at Paris's Fondation Louis Vuitton also shows us just how much he taught us to see.
Inside Man
Branden Jacobs-Jenkins's newest play on Broadway, Purpose, is another funny, heady, irreverent excavation into the psyche of an American family. Marley Marius meets its creator and cast.
IN WITH THE OLD
For decades, Kerry Taylor has been auctioning and reiventing—vintage.
FUN HOUSE
Moschino creative director Adrian Appiolaza is spinning new classics inspired by the brand's provocative and mischievous history. By Chiara Barzini.
This Side of Paradise
As a model, Gigi Hadid is capable of creating fantasias and dreamscapes-like this fashionable ode to the Jazz Age. As a young mother, she's blissfully earthbound. Chloe Schama considers a double life.
MEMBERS ONLY
A new crop of ultracurated wellness clubs is targeting loneliness and longevity in one go.
Machines Like Us
A new musical on Broadway—imported from Seoul—asks age-old questions about romance, mortality, and living life to the fullest. The twist? Robots.
