As I join a video call with Johnny Valencia, the founder of Pechuga Vintage, I notice his attention split between two screens: his phone’s, where he’s talking to me from Los Angeles, and his computer’s, where he’s scrutinizing an online auction of Mouna Ayoub’s Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld collection. The French Lebanese socialite is doing away with 252 pieces from her substantial haute couture archive, and Valencia is eyeing the magnificent black silk crepe gown from Chanel’s 1992 couture collection that Christy Turlington first wore on the runway, and that Lily-Rose Depp reintroduced at the 2019 Met Gala.
“I like to see myself as a vessel for transitory beauty,” says Valencia with a laugh. The vintage dealer, who started his business officially in 2018 after years of amateur thrifting amid a career in the buying team at Vivienne Westwood, is part of a new generation of fiercely proactive hunters whom fashion fanatics around the world enlist to find the buzziest and most highly sought-after vintage of the moment. That one archive Chanel fall 1991 belt that Linda Evangelista wore on the runway? Valencia’s got it. The elusive Marc Jacobs Kiki boots? Doja Cat bought them from his shop.
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Denne historien er fra March 2024-utgaven av Vogue US.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Machines Like Us
A new musical on Broadway—imported from Seoul—asks age-old questions about romance, mortality, and living life to the fullest. The twist? Robots.
HEAT WAVE
A seductive, feverishly celebrated revival of A Streetcar Named Desire arrives in Brooklyn with a blockbuster cast—including an antihero for the ages.
The End of the Affair
Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's new novel, Dream Count, is haunted by the idea of what could have been. Here, she tells the story of her own first love.
ALL IN THE FAMILY
New fiction looks at the ties that bind.
A Singular Man
Haider Ackermann took a call from Tom Ford, and everything changed: Now he's taking the helm of the brand Ford founded.
ONCE UPON A TIME IN THE WEST
With new hotels and resorts, Big Sky, Montana, opens up.
AN EYE ON YVES
Hamish Bowles spent decades collecting the groundbreaking work of Yves Saint Laurent. Now, he writes, it's going on exhibit in the late designer's Marrakech museum.
TWO PRINCES
At a proving moment in men's tennis, a pair of young challengers on either side of the Atlantic are stepping up.
Play time
How does Sabrina Carpenter manage to be modern and nostalgic, girly and glam, sweetly romantic and totally risqué all at the same time? Abby Aguirre meets an irresistible pop conundrum.
Another World
A decade ago the artist Lorna Simpson took up painting for the first time. A monumental new show at The Metropolitan Museum of Art reveals all she's accomplished.
