Lessons in LAMBRUSCO

Coming from the same region of northern Italy as some of the world’s most famous names in food, the wide range of Lambrusco wines provide ample scope for complementing meals both local and international, while refreshing the palate, too

- RAFFAELE MOSCA

The Emilia region in northern Italy is home to all but one of Italy’s DOC and IGT denominations for Lambrusco – a wine name that’s still well known in the UK and US especially, thanks to its heady popularity in its simple, fun fizz guise back in the 1970s and ’80s.

Lambrusco’s historical success has proved to be both a blessing and a curse for the Emilia region, however; while the big players prospered commercially, it made it extremely difficult for smaller producers to emerge into the limelight. It also caused the denial of Lambrusco’s historical role as an effervescent palate-cleanser born to match the cuisine of the Emilia region. ‘Lambrusco turned into a completely different wine from what it was in the local tradition, explains Anselmo Chiarli, co-owner of highly regarded producer Cleto Chiarli. 'Here in Emilia, we have always liked it dry.'

While sweet versions of Lambrusco still prove successful in some markets, most qualityoriented producers are finally shifting to drier styles - either going back to the wine's roots, or experimenting with innovative techniques to highlight Lambrusco's versatility. Average quality across the various Lambrusco denominations is constantly improving, with a mix of large wineries and independent growers crafting characterful examples that share foodfriendliness as a common point.

Diversity is the key word when assessing Lambrusco: not only do the vineyards stretch from the alluvial flatlands of the Padana plain to the rolling hills of the pre-Appenine area – covering six DOCs in Emilia, a broader IGT and a smaller sub-region in the Lombardy province of Mantova further north – the Lambrusco family also comprises at least 12 different grape varieties. 

STYLE CHOICE