BUT why are they doing it?’ asked Hermione, an aunt, in a Wodehousian sort of way. She had a point. Why indeed? Had any of us stopped to think? On the face of it, the clue was in the word ‘pilgrimage’, suggestive of a lengthy votive journey. However, as to the choice of route and what spirit moved us, it was a fair question to which I had only a partial answer at the outset.
I have twice ridden El Rocio, the great Andalusian pilgrimage by horse, foot and mule cart that converges annually on a village in the Doñana at Pentecost. The Spanish have an enviable habit of making a party of anything. El Rocio is a cocktail of landscape, culture and Catholicism sustained by copious vino. By day, pilgrims sing flamenco hymns and priests kneel before ox-cart-borne silver effigies of the Rocio Virgin. By night, they light fires in gypsy-wagon circles and accompany flamenco with mesmeric palmas clapping.
El Rocio is very different to Spain’s betterknown northern pilgrimage of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, which is anchored to no particular date. Solitary and sober by comparison—and international in flavour, where El Rocio is almost exclusively Spanish—the Camino hosts an annual 350,000 pilgrims on its ancient routes that converge on the cathedral resting place of St James the Great in Galicia.
Denne historien er fra August 24, 2022-utgaven av Country Life UK.
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Denne historien er fra August 24, 2022-utgaven av Country Life UK.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Kitchen garden cook - Apples
'Sweet and crisp, apples are the epitome of autumn flavour'
The original Mr Rochester
Three classic houses in North Yorkshire have come to the market; the owner of one inspired Charlotte Brontë to write Jane Eyre
Get it write
Desks, once akin to instruments of torture for scribes, have become cherished repositories of memories and secrets. Matthew Dennison charts their evolution
'Sloes hath ben my food'
A possible paint for the Picts and a definite culprit in tea fraud, the cheek-suckingly sour sloe's spiritual home is indisputably in gin, says John Wright
Souvenirs of greatness
FOR many years, some large boxes have been stored and forgotten in the dark recesses of the garage. Unpacked last week, the contents turned out to be pots: some, perhaps, nearing a century old—dense terracotta, of interesting provenance.
Plants for plants' sake
The garden at Hergest Croft, Herefordshire The home of Edward Banks The Banks family is synonymous with an extraordinary collection of trees and shrubs, many of which are presents from distinguished friends, garnered over two centuries. Be prepared to be amazed, says Charles Quest-Ritson
Capturing the castle
Seventy years after Christian Dior’s last fashion show in Scotland, the brand returned under creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri for a celebratory event honouring local craftsmanship, the beauty of the land and the Auld Alliance, explains Kim Parker
Nature's own cathedral
Our tallest native tree 'most lovely of all', the stately beech creates a shaded environment that few plants can survive. John Lewis-Stempel ventures into the enchanted woods
All that money could buy
A new book explores the lost riches of London's grand houses. Its author, Steven Brindle, looks at the residences of plutocrats built by the nouveaux riches of the late-Victorian and Edwardian ages
In with the old
Diamonds are meant to sparkle in candlelight, but many now gather dust in jewellery boxes. To wear them today, we may need to reimagine them, as Hetty Lintell discovers with her grandmother's jewellery
