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At the Covelong Classic last month, veteran Indian surfer, Manikandan "Appu" Desappan took on the swell in the final of the men's open category. By the end of the heat, he had finished in fourth spot, way off the winner's score. But there was still a sense of satisfaction on his face as he walked out on the beach under the sultry afternoon sun.
For one, Appu was relieved that his dodgy knee had held up, having just about recovered from an injury suffered a few weeks ago. Besides, he was also delighted with the performance of the local boys from his hometown of Kovalam.
While Ajeesh Ali N took the top spot, 14-year-old Kishore Kumar finished in second place. They represent the next generation of surfers, who are looking to make their mark on the international circuit. At that moment, Appu knew that Indian surfing was progressing in the right direction.
"When I started in 2003, there was no infrastructure in place for surfing. We would share one board left behind by a German friend. And there was no other gear like a leash or a vest," Appu says.
"In fact, what we did back then was bodysurfing. We even learned of the term surfing only a few years later," he adds.
Growing up amid the fishing community of Kovalam, Appu had the Bay of Bengal in his backyard. But like most young boys from his village, he would set out with his family to fish post midnight and would return to the shore only by daybreak. It was only then that he and his friends had some time to play, swimming in the sea or exploring their limits on the new toy.
"There were no smartphones either, so we couldn't really watch anything on the internet and learn like a lot of kids do today. All we knew back then was that we had to stay on the board as long as possible," Appu says.
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Denne historien er fra October 2022-utgaven av Man's World.
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